tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86858174085020367112024-03-22T04:25:34.694+00:00Eyes to the Horizon,Feet on the GroundMartin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comBlogger191125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-40289595522266546942011-09-17T00:41:00.002+01:002011-09-17T00:54:35.575+01:00Yungang Grottoes2009 09 19 – Days 85 – near Datong<br />
<br />
Not too far from Datong, but in the opposite direction to the <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/09/hanging-monastery.html">Hanging Monastery</a>, is one of the most famous ancient Buddhist sculpture sites in China, the <a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list">UNESCO World Heritage</a> listed <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yungang_Grottoes">Yungang Grottoes</a>.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-phK-1ollimoD-7siY-ZG2cb7MDFPdmkW9oNFagDz8SCRMWvfMMV9avQp4rpCuhamrAqwr7hJGiNwYK6ruXCUGhiGD3BxUTGQMkn_kc_FToF7ZHWT-LSN1UGat7Dio73GRpk1m4kfsk/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-phK-1ollimoD-7siY-ZG2cb7MDFPdmkW9oNFagDz8SCRMWvfMMV9avQp4rpCuhamrAqwr7hJGiNwYK6ruXCUGhiGD3BxUTGQMkn_kc_FToF7ZHWT-LSN1UGat7Dio73GRpk1m4kfsk/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>A couple of the grottoes had wooden temples constructed in front.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEIUOl5b1i3TVSax1YlnG8UgivF-JCg165PV-FPaOoPKUA4GliH9RM2ZUZ4WCR-VrXu21uPGAlOrYgrAMDJ7EHATzaGrQ93z71IpJf-hy7xkUbB-r2wLS9RYXTONm54s8_tDV2qoEHtv0/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEIUOl5b1i3TVSax1YlnG8UgivF-JCg165PV-FPaOoPKUA4GliH9RM2ZUZ4WCR-VrXu21uPGAlOrYgrAMDJ7EHATzaGrQ93z71IpJf-hy7xkUbB-r2wLS9RYXTONm54s8_tDV2qoEHtv0/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>While the rest are vulnerable to the elements and display signs of significant weathering.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRSt9CLISTAVyPI1Gl9645LrR9OBAK19jydJIhqCbOxOBj2RTNmxyi7reVSSmFZ8XYyA7dkO3s69JNEN7YpBOWqlK_o4zBe04tzplqhMkpj_OfUKDuvIaD4c9Mxi3gIsbkuoqswRbuydc/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRSt9CLISTAVyPI1Gl9645LrR9OBAK19jydJIhqCbOxOBj2RTNmxyi7reVSSmFZ8XYyA7dkO3s69JNEN7YpBOWqlK_o4zBe04tzplqhMkpj_OfUKDuvIaD4c9Mxi3gIsbkuoqswRbuydc/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGuYUUMX-RQPYj-IzyoBh7lPE0tYwZC5MGfdp_VrwHJrpIe88Fkyvk-aQINmfrv3E55s8vCt-X0dldQaiMQzWCCU1S2IFnpEalfp4K7-k7lSDdw2GlJuziM5Y-GJ53Aw6Xm2ekYeRtReU/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGuYUUMX-RQPYj-IzyoBh7lPE0tYwZC5MGfdp_VrwHJrpIe88Fkyvk-aQINmfrv3E55s8vCt-X0dldQaiMQzWCCU1S2IFnpEalfp4K7-k7lSDdw2GlJuziM5Y-GJ53Aw6Xm2ekYeRtReU/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I'm sure weathering is not the only explanation for this Buddha's lack of nose and other surface detailing - looting and vandalism must have occurred at some point in its history.<br />
The many small holes were to hold short sticks of wood that supported a coloured plaster surfacing, both now fallen away by fair means or foul.<br />
A couple of the grottoes have kept some of their colour and detail:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm-ItREYJMJdnwfEyf1-jTed3lVBLKKPMieETwIG433Sg-0sBvc9-dOBIPQ9YB8yL4OzHgB-pWHr6O9a9ursphjlf24Gpn0jA_GEFLX18Mh7kKzW16MHuvxVu4HV0NJJjV3izcLmnILv4/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm-ItREYJMJdnwfEyf1-jTed3lVBLKKPMieETwIG433Sg-0sBvc9-dOBIPQ9YB8yL4OzHgB-pWHr6O9a9ursphjlf24Gpn0jA_GEFLX18Mh7kKzW16MHuvxVu4HV0NJJjV3izcLmnILv4/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>And this Buddha retains his surfacing in the form of blue robes up to his waist:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0Wo8jBDXhUowOnkbv3k9Yp5nG0EsBcMAwndEOntttvpBHNhfmU7xoqGLQAqIf87VJVuXhkwgWY81pC_f5lxk4h8nA1uvGyaNbup0iziG9oXxkM-ZYBoJsFnHMfs3dpQuOhuD72TxYEc/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0Wo8jBDXhUowOnkbv3k9Yp5nG0EsBcMAwndEOntttvpBHNhfmU7xoqGLQAqIf87VJVuXhkwgWY81pC_f5lxk4h8nA1uvGyaNbup0iziG9oXxkM-ZYBoJsFnHMfs3dpQuOhuD72TxYEc/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Either side of him:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdCn1Xnb1iTxJUW49xjO5LUxJYjeSnuZs2UGB24lARW9TnrFJpngcEACwc7-niuDh7UBDNyAlS5lCo8oDPImT9bqs4SGUtEI4qE4tC684UaWtW5Kr-EirgGJ-E-VYOIhlxb7ebBkUHG8/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdCn1Xnb1iTxJUW49xjO5LUxJYjeSnuZs2UGB24lARW9TnrFJpngcEACwc7-niuDh7UBDNyAlS5lCo8oDPImT9bqs4SGUtEI4qE4tC684UaWtW5Kr-EirgGJ-E-VYOIhlxb7ebBkUHG8/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmzFuKHEt73I_gjQ-dqP1qxMWzx2_fEOmzb-w2b6O6p8IA76lD4zDi96k2nz3qYVF3PRJdeZmHTBBqEtoDmYurQhmrZviKCF5-o-LAQKJ_8UoBYvsD2JhnOXTQh4rk4NXn_nvuC3iQ82c/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmzFuKHEt73I_gjQ-dqP1qxMWzx2_fEOmzb-w2b6O6p8IA76lD4zDi96k2nz3qYVF3PRJdeZmHTBBqEtoDmYurQhmrZviKCF5-o-LAQKJ_8UoBYvsD2JhnOXTQh4rk4NXn_nvuC3iQ82c/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_08.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>Our guide told us that, rather than having complex scaffolding, the sculptors would cut in through the cliff and sculpt the head before gradually working down the figure and then cutting the door. Aside from the practical nature of this approach, it results in an aesthetically and spiritually pleasing arrangement whereby a visitor walks in through a darkened doorway to stand, often in dim light, by Buddha's feet. From there, your gaze is naturally drawn upwards to the light, the main source of which is Buddha's serene visage bathed in the natural light entering through the upper cutting.<br />
<br />
There are 252 grottoes spread along the site,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMjaYK0bjh38BXf4M1G_c6DNQOlSkFeUOG7jE2bkSwbMnG2S-uH55f3WZkKcuePYLMmbVgFSR9waFy5qMiD5YxUVpKslZoy46KCAMw-5E3-oAvaWApeXiV1jFD8nTnUj4BHXW6B4Si0I/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_09.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMjaYK0bjh38BXf4M1G_c6DNQOlSkFeUOG7jE2bkSwbMnG2S-uH55f3WZkKcuePYLMmbVgFSR9waFy5qMiD5YxUVpKslZoy46KCAMw-5E3-oAvaWApeXiV1jFD8nTnUj4BHXW6B4Si0I/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_09.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>many of them quite small,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTYWsp2rnbv6WfaEa_P06rUrY8qy0_stLOsfilfSEmuPAhcgwcXXZ-oEOIE3qGyg-OJJw9gQXjZkJ_431xJ5BNrymJrZYpgGUioLN0SE-UGyw7KP5SXMSmVKgGPd0UW3LltuHO8zuzBc/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTYWsp2rnbv6WfaEa_P06rUrY8qy0_stLOsfilfSEmuPAhcgwcXXZ-oEOIE3qGyg-OJJw9gQXjZkJ_431xJ5BNrymJrZYpgGUioLN0SE-UGyw7KP5SXMSmVKgGPd0UW3LltuHO8zuzBc/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_10.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>but some are pretty big and of impressive craftsmanship.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFGoN7y7U9_Ke4mwoEb-Yukk9l6-mHy9cUrCr4fj_eDyg3eKsn2ENNLD3vujELE82EKyE2YTUqN6vS4Jgs8WAKFNctgHgWjakiCzCNZZ0Bs7Bi4qUy4pqV0Kuh_ZXQrhRXFFSnd2xIdY/s1600/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFGoN7y7U9_Ke4mwoEb-Yukk9l6-mHy9cUrCr4fj_eDyg3eKsn2ENNLD3vujELE82EKyE2YTUqN6vS4Jgs8WAKFNctgHgWjakiCzCNZZ0Bs7Bi4qUy4pqV0Kuh_ZXQrhRXFFSnd2xIdY/s400/blog0191_YungangGrottoes_11.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>This is the best preserved face on one of the large Buddha sculptures and is an iconic tourism image in China.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comYungang Grottoes, Datong, Shanxi, China40.113415955307985 113.1336368704223839.852501955307986 112.80958837042238 40.374329955307985 113.45768537042238tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-36188577190178657742011-09-17T00:10:00.001+01:002011-09-17T00:57:41.803+01:00Hanging Monastery2009 09 19 – Days 85 – near Datong<br />
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One of three non-industrial reasons to stop in Datong, the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanging_Temple">Hanging Monastery</a> is truly a fantastical sight.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyYXnzFyKmdPwqVB9-HiVLA_NhpThX2ogmDTsZmdoS44uxS0CetC2E7AOnfyhUCBx2pUkZ-D3chM4FgYO0c2CNWGfhX3e0uYXPQOH4CAncPmUyPLlLKhVdjKYgsYhLLS6TFCDvA9Zz7s/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyYXnzFyKmdPwqVB9-HiVLA_NhpThX2ogmDTsZmdoS44uxS0CetC2E7AOnfyhUCBx2pUkZ-D3chM4FgYO0c2CNWGfhX3e0uYXPQOH4CAncPmUyPLlLKhVdjKYgsYhLLS6TFCDvA9Zz7s/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Who would live on a cliff face like this?<br />
Monks it would seem and not only those of a particular type as the Hanging Monastery has Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian elements.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJe5qGJpxzVxM7WVabHgLbk6m-XDyBZBzV3wyAKn6BrRUMP04X7Rdg2mqcJtYCP7eVORiOj6AAA1uDtZcG9cTJM-pAJ0wWS0c2P6H_a5HuxJHgcqYKevdLE2mjYH36vtwZ1U5kh5FxDec/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJe5qGJpxzVxM7WVabHgLbk6m-XDyBZBzV3wyAKn6BrRUMP04X7Rdg2mqcJtYCP7eVORiOj6AAA1uDtZcG9cTJM-pAJ0wWS0c2P6H_a5HuxJHgcqYKevdLE2mjYH36vtwZ1U5kh5FxDec/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The nearby trickle with pretensions of being a river must become a raging torrent with spring snow melt because some serious concrete channels had been constructed and our guide told us that the Monastery had been washed away a couple of times and rebuilt slightly higher up the cliff face.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7XX81vhTPJ2ZCRHfPXAtoTc5XoEwM3J_TwOeEft_DbrZpgqrEXbNa0vxsroSaDrUe4rNLY47Zl-hOZf9EPkQu53NUkKGy_XRJGx0_R2qY2Hht24X4R-od2pxzzb6z-dFF7SSVzLkz8I/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7XX81vhTPJ2ZCRHfPXAtoTc5XoEwM3J_TwOeEft_DbrZpgqrEXbNa0vxsroSaDrUe4rNLY47Zl-hOZf9EPkQu53NUkKGy_XRJGx0_R2qY2Hht24X4R-od2pxzzb6z-dFF7SSVzLkz8I/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz7uB223_GBUNEodT-v1sy-bePuiEOWGtEPxUVE1wQhiHDwDI72fGpPv8Xb-EHOQYsjnXPdFTHzADDH93WMXCldCZtlpetwv9dVEgT4FQRzYApATq2653qRn1OAADLXP59p92RgYYD_W8/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz7uB223_GBUNEodT-v1sy-bePuiEOWGtEPxUVE1wQhiHDwDI72fGpPv8Xb-EHOQYsjnXPdFTHzADDH93WMXCldCZtlpetwv9dVEgT4FQRzYApATq2653qRn1OAADLXP59p92RgYYD_W8/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Despite the place crawling with tourists, a well thought out one-way loop of a route enabled frustration free touring and appreciation of the vertiginous positioning.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0uB4r-2J0qLCJ2EecqRstRoz23A24VD0EU6an6jxPgtmmhEpT9whjSXYUdDIvV7sOPM7oJDQ94IwrazHYEolusgY3QKj0fSp3L1-5K-fsaz6uzf1RUlULz3E4pMmhac0Nm2csZGTQDY/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0uB4r-2J0qLCJ2EecqRstRoz23A24VD0EU6an6jxPgtmmhEpT9whjSXYUdDIvV7sOPM7oJDQ94IwrazHYEolusgY3QKj0fSp3L1-5K-fsaz6uzf1RUlULz3E4pMmhac0Nm2csZGTQDY/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Despite the simple wooden construction and sheer drops beside most walkways, the building felt stable, with a magical quality to the way it clung to the cliff.<br />
Experiencing that stability while walking around it made the location seems slightly less ridiculous than when viewed from the valley floor. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZWiYkj-ctkO9pYbIMZYBa6H5ANuifJLFWEzKUWYm8h23GkLhiS5NTXXj4mHTx9FOzs0iXlt1boNo2bZuFQsG2679HPjYS81KBUwdDQQ8cNkIOR1kSxn4mZjpR6a59QC5sBK-_4Am5ZY/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZWiYkj-ctkO9pYbIMZYBa6H5ANuifJLFWEzKUWYm8h23GkLhiS5NTXXj4mHTx9FOzs0iXlt1boNo2bZuFQsG2679HPjYS81KBUwdDQQ8cNkIOR1kSxn4mZjpR6a59QC5sBK-_4Am5ZY/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYCxN5DzqfG-3eiNFJd3EisX_fqRV1e3HwrjfoPUjClSmNgjZ-DzFGJQs6GA26YkOBI4GRarI7senrDJNYFsRkPvlDDLQ1b30jFS6DmbzWG4OQz6zs15pd8Mioh7RD637Us0sZrQIC24I/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYCxN5DzqfG-3eiNFJd3EisX_fqRV1e3HwrjfoPUjClSmNgjZ-DzFGJQs6GA26YkOBI4GRarI7senrDJNYFsRkPvlDDLQ1b30jFS6DmbzWG4OQz6zs15pd8Mioh7RD637Us0sZrQIC24I/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrTGEC3ucB03DIn_hPcVwMke0vzW2j9rEhMgj3Yz9MrezPvhcao1KeV8n4CBAJA-PkXA4A9avYEqnVGsiozA4CbgPXRHJkZbvGCp19qEoGn-t7xAD4MsjdMrq2bBmBAI9NjtkGtbmFnk/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrTGEC3ucB03DIn_hPcVwMke0vzW2j9rEhMgj3Yz9MrezPvhcao1KeV8n4CBAJA-PkXA4A9avYEqnVGsiozA4CbgPXRHJkZbvGCp19qEoGn-t7xAD4MsjdMrq2bBmBAI9NjtkGtbmFnk/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_08.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>One of the best preserved shrines.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgm5gQpjHMFZzBcxlYiQva1wN1ejTSbrEFdkNoNzbNJPvvWyO1-qRlzvyY6mXW6s5Z7CYkI9Z6XMMWpuY0l9dxpm5UTJz4JoivItZJmVbJUgMKTuKmkPSmGuCgGSOjgt0v12UvodGMGM/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_09.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgm5gQpjHMFZzBcxlYiQva1wN1ejTSbrEFdkNoNzbNJPvvWyO1-qRlzvyY6mXW6s5Z7CYkI9Z6XMMWpuY0l9dxpm5UTJz4JoivItZJmVbJUgMKTuKmkPSmGuCgGSOjgt0v12UvodGMGM/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_09.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Ceiling art, accompanied by an entirely necessary, but unnecessarily conspicuous smoke detector.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_F0HisDlA9D0v5AFrh-S0gXlF8LJrNGBC545Z0kWF11hD3Bzv6YbPQ8-xm5EbvjhPjKrZxQsIdGLHOmhTseunmrDuD_xNjwX38LFaM-vw5u-FQGurXJSqVloGfEN1G-pzcI3ufZF0erg/s1600/blog0190_HangingMonastery_10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_F0HisDlA9D0v5AFrh-S0gXlF8LJrNGBC545Z0kWF11hD3Bzv6YbPQ8-xm5EbvjhPjKrZxQsIdGLHOmhTseunmrDuD_xNjwX38LFaM-vw5u-FQGurXJSqVloGfEN1G-pzcI3ufZF0erg/s400/blog0190_HangingMonastery_10.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Is this really necessary!? Whether it should be there or not is debatable, but that it should be so conspicuous?Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comHanging Temple, Hunyuan, Datong, Shanxi, China39.6590045806411 113.7096014026244639.4066585806411 113.41285740262445 39.911350580641106 114.00634540262446tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-37650506524429851872011-09-16T23:53:00.001+01:002011-09-17T00:59:30.350+01:00Building Capacity2009 09 19 – Days 85 – near Datong<br />
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My CITS tour group for the day was an eclectic mix, consisting of a French couple and Spanish lady all about the same age as me and an older Chinese couple who didn't speak any English. The six of us fit tightly but neatly into a little minibus with our driver and English-speaking guide.<br />
The drive to the Hanging Monastery was a little less than two hours and mostly unremarkable. The road was in decent condition for the most part, there was little traffic to compete with and the countryside rolled by offering little to the eye, with the dust and smog I'd grown accustomed to draining the colour and life from the world.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKTdgzX_QNN1BkxAGLmlpEA9k0LFMqJPmfPZ-KWdEolYNebQ8PJLm63cAwRNDGqPCv1oQ4LdXIVfgYSGJkkEOddHDoKt5RG7C90sijfMKclaxZ-DaSFpD3w31tE82CEBi_kaGjjsEW2-w/s1600/blog0189_BuildingCapacity_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKTdgzX_QNN1BkxAGLmlpEA9k0LFMqJPmfPZ-KWdEolYNebQ8PJLm63cAwRNDGqPCv1oQ4LdXIVfgYSGJkkEOddHDoKt5RG7C90sijfMKclaxZ-DaSFpD3w31tE82CEBi_kaGjjsEW2-w/s400/blog0189_BuildingCapacity_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
However, there was one noteworthy event of the journey – a thought – a powerful and scary thought.<br />
About an hour into our journey, we had to negotiate some road construction works. Nothing remarkable about that as there are construction projects everywhere you look in China. The new road was at least double the width of the one we were using, no doubt it would become a motorway with three or four lanes in each direction. Again, not a particularly noteworthy observation, but as we were driving away, I wondered why they would build such a big road when our much smaller road was far from full? What vast volume of traffic would it take to fill the new road? And what did that say about the expectations of car ownership and usage in China?<br />
<br />
Considering the already terrible air quality, the prospect of such a huge road being filled with traffic, and car ownership becoming normal for the many millions of Chinese people, was a profoundly scary thought. How can the environment cope with such punishment?Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comDatong, Shanxi, China39.84084066461395 113.5366096499999539.568862164613947 113.27461014999994 40.112819164613953 113.79860914999995tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-33897749227623990402011-09-09T09:43:00.000+01:002011-09-09T09:43:40.117+01:00Welcome to Datong, We've Been Expecting You...2009 09 18 – Day 84 – Datong<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datong">Datong</a> is an industrial city with no particular reason to visit. It is, however, well placed to use as a base for visiting a few otherwise remote sites.<br />
As with most of the Chinese stations I'd experienced, the arriving passengers spill out into a large square in front of the station without passing the ticketing or departure areas. So there I was, in the fading twilight, knowing that it's wise to buy your onward ticket as soon as possible, trying to decide whether to stay one night or two, as I really didn't want to stay any longer than possible, and whether I should even try and answer that question now, when I didn't yet have a bed for the night and didn't know if I could get on a tour the next day or not.<br />
Not knowing anyone in the city, I was unnerved and on guard to see a middle-aged guy in a brown corduroy jacket striding purposefully towards me. I glanced around, confirming that there wasn't anyone else he was aiming for. Nope. It was definitely me...<br />
Thankfully he turned out to be well intentioned. He was from <a href="http://www.cits.net/">CITS</a>, the Chinese state tourism company, and he often looked for foreigners arriving from Beijing to see if he could help, despite it being beyond his normal working hours. Chatting about the tourism scene in Datong, he revealed that most visitors were, as I was, only passing through, not keen on staying and with a mind to see two or possibly all three of the tourism-worthy sites within range of the city.<br />
Back in his nearby office, we struck a deal over a tour of two sites the next day and sorted a dorm bed in the basic hostel run by CITS.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXlBJxdfemARgoLeaLWVRJ-tdAG8xTEGDwkdU0eQEERJl-iJNsnH99FkyOHDdC8uDenwc3CHIyRUhgJSA7kOr9Ac7Y19Anp-PB54o9rgpcbD5uqYt8D11nIOheduQOP34UBqymN1bMS0/s1600/blog0188_WelcometoDatongWeveBeenExpectingYou_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXlBJxdfemARgoLeaLWVRJ-tdAG8xTEGDwkdU0eQEERJl-iJNsnH99FkyOHDdC8uDenwc3CHIyRUhgJSA7kOr9Ac7Y19Anp-PB54o9rgpcbD5uqYt8D11nIOheduQOP34UBqymN1bMS0/s400/blog0188_WelcometoDatongWeveBeenExpectingYou_01.JPG" width="290" /></a></div><br />
With my objectives for Datong 'in the bag', I returned to the station and was delighted to be able to also secure an onward ticket for the following night. Sometimes everything just seems to fall in to place so effortlessly it's amazing. I'd arrived in Datong with nothing booked, having never been there before, barely able to utter a word of Chinese and yet within a couple of hours I had a bed for the night, a tour for the next day, an onward train ticket and was sat enjoying a basic but tasty local dinner! Incredible.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comUrban Area, Datong, Shanxi, China40.119612316068142 113.302173629345739.858698316068143 112.9781251293457 40.380526316068142 113.62622212934571tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-71679794448904615142011-09-09T09:28:00.000+01:002011-09-09T09:28:24.180+01:00About Turn! - Westward Bound2009 09 17-18 – Days 83-84 – trains to Datong via Beijing<br />
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Just a few days earlier, leaving Beijing, I had thought that after Dandong I'd go further north and east to hike in a large national park, but my growing appreciation of the sheer size of China, and the realisation that it could be unwise to go hiking solo in an unknown mountainous area in autumn (off-season), forced me to make some more cuts to my possible destinations list and led to an overnight train to Beijing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiZ3p1A5l0siqlNfYs0OCLlnI2MBp86ix44Tvtt79YAAC5521ieG4nbE1asABpB4DGzyxddMA2KjvB13ukva_aHQMtlNV8AhSvEZoGNEIKQnMsZLzFMifvPAUsEgcS0XToSB-BwYWYUc/s1600/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiZ3p1A5l0siqlNfYs0OCLlnI2MBp86ix44Tvtt79YAAC5521ieG4nbE1asABpB4DGzyxddMA2KjvB13ukva_aHQMtlNV8AhSvEZoGNEIKQnMsZLzFMifvPAUsEgcS0XToSB-BwYWYUc/s400/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Stopping just long enough to buy a ticket and wait for the train, I was soon on a standing-room-only train to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datong">Datong</a>, a short six hours to the east.<br />
My standing status wasn't to last the full six hours though, thanks to the effervescent Shar Shar (aka Sarah) sat in front of me:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBc7w3shtZnXNjh2NnMkFDzU0jrohP7E4uSvf-h-Tq_-6YCbEgzWJOK7AtrtQk7fKdZ7-KpXGsoXC4P7hkAqhXAH5E0Bx33kRsAxcE4pHYhEzcLGWV_6mxRUYhjfPjdSMKTg22DrJXoQ/s1600/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBc7w3shtZnXNjh2NnMkFDzU0jrohP7E4uSvf-h-Tq_-6YCbEgzWJOK7AtrtQk7fKdZ7-KpXGsoXC4P7hkAqhXAH5E0Bx33kRsAxcE4pHYhEzcLGWV_6mxRUYhjfPjdSMKTg22DrJXoQ/s400/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>It came as no surprise that she normally worked in Beijing's infamous tourist trap The Silk Market, as she proceeded to assault me with her enthusiasm, transferring her everyday sales skills instead to social interaction. Surrounded as I was on all sides by other passengers, there was no escape from her verbal barrage, so it was of huge consolation that she was so smiley and good-humoured. It wasn't long before she forced her seat upon me. I tried to resist, but there's only so many times you can refuse someone's hospitality before you cause serious offence. I did manage to add in the clause that I would take it for only an hour and then she could have it back by which point she was actually quite pleased to sit down again. Although Shar Shar was a lovely person, friendly and fun, I wasn't too upset that she wasn't going all the way to Datong as her lack of interest in pausing for breath lead to one of the best demonstrations I've seen of what it takes to literally talk the hind legs off a donkey! Although she was a funny and engaging person, I was exhausted by the time she got off.<br />
<br />
Much of the journey had been winding our way around under and through steep-sided mountains, but the last couple of hours were mostly over level terrain and I had a seat and conversation free calm to enjoy view.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYIUL39hqfliTsP3QqMi9WqqYfROrHIK_dt8X2GP0iCnLWfGK4TR4EDzGV0eKbZX-fyjxr-y6Tne-02FgH8laQ0Wh6E9G8sgWRvtmThFQAjRrf-DqMkIZQeVrfAcblDoFPsbTyB6EykM8/s1600/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYIUL39hqfliTsP3QqMi9WqqYfROrHIK_dt8X2GP0iCnLWfGK4TR4EDzGV0eKbZX-fyjxr-y6Tne-02FgH8laQ0Wh6E9G8sgWRvtmThFQAjRrf-DqMkIZQeVrfAcblDoFPsbTyB6EykM8/s400/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>As the sun set over the iconic yellow earth, it occurred to me that, throughout the entire six hour train journey, we'd never once escaped the smog! Could it really be that such poor visibility over such a large area was entirely man-made!?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggEYBSL-uGhKch82uYKrMJsqPJo4-z5ULOUMIqIRZeW71OLyr8s8_LYjdBtEN-RyYaRiXxQxBXEdUI6EFp6Ihc6WaAYG2Ru9xq8zC-KO5b-nVzNQ8VKsIWYTKC_dOMNsngSeHEdmnN3y0/s1600/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggEYBSL-uGhKch82uYKrMJsqPJo4-z5ULOUMIqIRZeW71OLyr8s8_LYjdBtEN-RyYaRiXxQxBXEdUI6EFp6Ihc6WaAYG2Ru9xq8zC-KO5b-nVzNQ8VKsIWYTKC_dOMNsngSeHEdmnN3y0/s400/blog0187_AboutTurn-WestwardBound_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I supposed it probably was, sadly, both possible and probable.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comDatong, Shanxi, China40.3034141425473 114.0691689687499840.2091231425473 113.94213946874997 40.397705142547295 114.19619846874998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-64707876267014200082011-09-09T08:47:00.003+01:002011-09-09T09:10:04.549+01:00Korean War Museum2009 09 17 – Day 83 – Dandong<br />
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One of the few 'sights' of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dandong">Dandong</a>, this <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korean_War">Korean War</a> museum has an impressive title that simultaneously demonstrates both the descriptive nature of Chinese and the 'editorial line' of the curators. It's official name translates as:<br />
'The Museum to Commemorate the War to Resist American Aggression and Aid Korea.'<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj72GjUNuELEkXJE1a4HtGO2YjfqN99KtaCvbkSIrnzDAobJC7Z7MZKWH11ByVHlq3C1Gv35PtBD3nr_0Sp1xmV8LD_Vj2upJT1LT9ul8AlxaRdNG8rSsnJN37PDDXUxnEWBIJWQH6JgUY/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj72GjUNuELEkXJE1a4HtGO2YjfqN99KtaCvbkSIrnzDAobJC7Z7MZKWH11ByVHlq3C1Gv35PtBD3nr_0Sp1xmV8LD_Vj2upJT1LT9ul8AlxaRdNG8rSsnJN37PDDXUxnEWBIJWQH6JgUY/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><a href="http://www.chinatravel.net/china-attractions/Dandong-Korean-War-Museum/introduction-1135.html">A 53-meter cenotaph commemorates the 1953 cessation of conflict and the 115,000-400,000 (depending on who's counting) Chinese conscripts and volunteers who died executing Mao's "human wave" strategy, designed to overwhelm superior firepower and weaponry with sheer numbers</a>. <br />
For a small entrance fee you can climb the inside of the cenotaph for grand views of the arrayed hardware of war;<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhVjcrMaKXVlSINSrAFesNCHh0VTTjPu2KHmQ3hJPF1jWK8Avjpz_e_1kfgKDPI7aG_B8tDRj9EzYGx6U2P4WtGtNTmjkAVdjpLXc7loozr3up8KeqEXjjuf-gii8Hf-oOPiIcyptu8c/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhVjcrMaKXVlSINSrAFesNCHh0VTTjPu2KHmQ3hJPF1jWK8Avjpz_e_1kfgKDPI7aG_B8tDRj9EzYGx6U2P4WtGtNTmjkAVdjpLXc7loozr3up8KeqEXjjuf-gii8Hf-oOPiIcyptu8c/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>and, were it not for the smog, I'm sure there'd be spectacular views across the city and into North Korea, but sadly I couldn't see much further than the main museum buildings less than 100m away.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjLbCyXyF8jiwR3GfOI9BdqsjudJhBLi5SQPQunHxMD26FNLz6qj6x24SMzhxxs9XQ4pg7ERLlokdkneZ4cjh4OxoLUqtYOsnxxyj9ATYoBxwoXjDmS78FlyT5rfGN_ob9bDHWYXendk/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjLbCyXyF8jiwR3GfOI9BdqsjudJhBLi5SQPQunHxMD26FNLz6qj6x24SMzhxxs9XQ4pg7ERLlokdkneZ4cjh4OxoLUqtYOsnxxyj9ATYoBxwoXjDmS78FlyT5rfGN_ob9bDHWYXendk/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>More hardware welcomes visitors,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-WvlshnuDfhxT9Km6D-BIXpuBLyRK9MQqKwKt0vSs22UZZm7OVsTwKcBo2VHxPrRmH2uPwHeLv4DXzENWV-j9g4WjdNFdkR3EFkTdyRZNWyCMXIsk0ABnuVle4mp0wcldNSw-5270HcM/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-WvlshnuDfhxT9Km6D-BIXpuBLyRK9MQqKwKt0vSs22UZZm7OVsTwKcBo2VHxPrRmH2uPwHeLv4DXzENWV-j9g4WjdNFdkR3EFkTdyRZNWyCMXIsk0ABnuVle4mp0wcldNSw-5270HcM/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>followed by Mao Zedong and Kim Il Sung, the first among equals from the Chinese and North Korean sides, celebrating their hard won 'victory' with their comrades.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivMNi-8bKhgvjK6aUf4i3g5f2diHSIwbFKotItcdv8H0mHmBMFPJ31x-U7a5TBvbf_oQUOzcEqkcQUNhBeE8vfZnEXkGJUL2J2vlSPyHBJlb1Bk99EHEJIfMPxDvx9vEh99GfKQ5A6tAM/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivMNi-8bKhgvjK6aUf4i3g5f2diHSIwbFKotItcdv8H0mHmBMFPJ31x-U7a5TBvbf_oQUOzcEqkcQUNhBeE8vfZnEXkGJUL2J2vlSPyHBJlb1Bk99EHEJIfMPxDvx9vEh99GfKQ5A6tAM/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Flanking the statue are two short, two-storey, introductory texts: a "Joint Declaration of Democratic Parties in China" announcing the US/allied intention to "not only destroy [North Korea], but also annex Korea, invade China, rule Asia, even conquer the whole world." (4th November 1950); and an "Order of the Formation of the Chinese People Volunteers" declaring the righteous nature of their cause assisting their Korean neighbours in resisting the imperial aggressors (8th October 1950).<br />
<br />
Somewhat surprisingly, the museum entrance was free which was a welcome change from my Chinese tourism experience so far and especially generous considering the scale and scope of he exhibition.<br />
The range of artefacts on display was impressive and well presented including:<br />
Chinese weaponry;<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguS6JRd7BaFCFO64ngfHSWlb2Z-mRTSfJlNfkPxyV059QSn8g2u9kGG0NabLna0u9cRxAuD1Bd7zjhVEc9dMnS5I0_3h1tEbneof5wOPCEN_7rflRXX6g7Pe0ybnb9tmxW3ua2rgrGHlU/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguS6JRd7BaFCFO64ngfHSWlb2Z-mRTSfJlNfkPxyV059QSn8g2u9kGG0NabLna0u9cRxAuD1Bd7zjhVEc9dMnS5I0_3h1tEbneof5wOPCEN_7rflRXX6g7Pe0ybnb9tmxW3ua2rgrGHlU/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>and standard kit;<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQEFGEF2GyMiXU969eyrtvLINENBI0kzUmOMMueP6k6d98cw1t-E-uLjYJHXo9lraNuVawZxu4jMJBJMeuR6ZjRMo_hd4-JESh4GGmPtGn7ZjVj59pMf7eYCvKGCDSlQaTWnyk4Icua0c/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQEFGEF2GyMiXU969eyrtvLINENBI0kzUmOMMueP6k6d98cw1t-E-uLjYJHXo9lraNuVawZxu4jMJBJMeuR6ZjRMo_hd4-JESh4GGmPtGn7ZjVj59pMf7eYCvKGCDSlQaTWnyk4Icua0c/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>US kit;<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJwusPoGQ8HWRTfODesstP62lsTnhYptq_UuDt4WzB1oBvxYZdQg0knpfzrlkjGvawJp_8fm2O4YUZVHpiIkPi5rN5hCYvdHn8J3__YlxyiOWQ71dJa4JzFWWyHx36Opqt4GCIK0ctt0/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJwusPoGQ8HWRTfODesstP62lsTnhYptq_UuDt4WzB1oBvxYZdQg0knpfzrlkjGvawJp_8fm2O4YUZVHpiIkPi5rN5hCYvdHn8J3__YlxyiOWQ71dJa4JzFWWyHx36Opqt4GCIK0ctt0/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_08.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiag1qwDgHZJd3FCXDjL2y1OOKhQq4aBIZSmZq3JM5as3wOYbcSmp5CgHdQNmjNaA690dySm6xgGh9RCH4Gz2tQ3ZONmtdG4Z0gxY3zk-zpJ8Ntmb3np8nl5TzM3IyDKNKAT2emvEfWLgo/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_09.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiag1qwDgHZJd3FCXDjL2y1OOKhQq4aBIZSmZq3JM5as3wOYbcSmp5CgHdQNmjNaA690dySm6xgGh9RCH4Gz2tQ3ZONmtdG4Z0gxY3zk-zpJ8Ntmb3np8nl5TzM3IyDKNKAT2emvEfWLgo/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_09.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
dynamic summaries of offensives and troop movements;<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwh9nnw_Y3B9WUVuojB_5pW1fjDAtqNKwjkEZR7C0pbyx2PyiI7kjV2HSbvfBfBISiWjFJHP_wxrOnYDfipiQfwbAWx4j5tmvYFUoeawhQ5mKHPiMlfzVhXo32P_YLxfAl2CZNdeynIc/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwh9nnw_Y3B9WUVuojB_5pW1fjDAtqNKwjkEZR7C0pbyx2PyiI7kjV2HSbvfBfBISiWjFJHP_wxrOnYDfipiQfwbAWx4j5tmvYFUoeawhQ5mKHPiMlfzVhXo32P_YLxfAl2CZNdeynIc/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_10.JPG" width="285" /></a></div>a mini reconstruction of a North Korean/Chinese tunnel base;<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVIg-XDu5qYEfVJ7XViRTXJQ5EnlbT8ji4KKYo-Vbh0PiY91wLK8_dmfMGJWaurrLmCEQfD4KvWYZ-aUeGcDyGQgRp7J3FrFb9S1VSD__TbLrPqt611BkI_Og4HlMr6OmFsV5NXCyxc4/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVIg-XDu5qYEfVJ7XViRTXJQ5EnlbT8ji4KKYo-Vbh0PiY91wLK8_dmfMGJWaurrLmCEQfD4KvWYZ-aUeGcDyGQgRp7J3FrFb9S1VSD__TbLrPqt611BkI_Og4HlMr6OmFsV5NXCyxc4/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_11.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>propaganda espousing the pointlessness of war and the joys home, dropped to break US/allied moral, and poignant letters home from GIs;<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP7-2EnyulZm0wlM7EPboUi9LlFg4la4UKQUbtj1iPq5fRTFsYoy8bpWl-9YzrRILrUOOG8m1Mjim1TDn-NVPGXWgqGC-nwDEQU9zyKLyLSd9oZ_QYsoFezLhCUO9252FwGu_hmTsRVwg/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP7-2EnyulZm0wlM7EPboUi9LlFg4la4UKQUbtj1iPq5fRTFsYoy8bpWl-9YzrRILrUOOG8m1Mjim1TDn-NVPGXWgqGC-nwDEQU9zyKLyLSd9oZ_QYsoFezLhCUO9252FwGu_hmTsRVwg/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_12.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>An informative section on the nascent Chinese airforce and an impressively arranged, painted and lit 360 degree diorama of a battlefield;<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxNRJ3leX0q3mUMipFoSOu4pflTWQA_unn5-ZctNqEzf49y6kAVvs7HU-NWBemoXrukiilmLYCwX3c5WDx2kSJjaDbhyphenhyphent8sG3zcm-Ua9SJK4MkQVmwY5ilCWnJynDETtuSgCy0mSAczYc/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxNRJ3leX0q3mUMipFoSOu4pflTWQA_unn5-ZctNqEzf49y6kAVvs7HU-NWBemoXrukiilmLYCwX3c5WDx2kSJjaDbhyphenhyphent8sG3zcm-Ua9SJK4MkQVmwY5ilCWnJynDETtuSgCy0mSAczYc/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_13.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>it was actually quite difficult to identify the join between three-dimensional models and painted backdrop.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04Y0-UZtvU4D2aT0lFH1VejI_RnTCgBE-RK6uPfFuca_sX2YqnEwmvX1r-A8EvtKsfjI5Ft16NVlBByb74zJlSSIIaXsLFr7sQUgIrgkFU5o3ywogqgzmwUC3HObVdae7H3x262fs2Qk/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_14.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04Y0-UZtvU4D2aT0lFH1VejI_RnTCgBE-RK6uPfFuca_sX2YqnEwmvX1r-A8EvtKsfjI5Ft16NVlBByb74zJlSSIIaXsLFr7sQUgIrgkFU5o3ywogqgzmwUC3HObVdae7H3x262fs2Qk/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_14.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Exiting the grounds of the museum gave you a closer encounter with the field of hardware.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2F_bPX-fywtnBiC5UkKcxluVNwWWp_Z8h9-gCep5WggBZouLuW9vASRpjVh63WVMjAMCcWY4k_2BoaScGLVEDFyeEhId4YPCr_vuiYyz-EeHsbdMozFRMIumLZHCSGoVv6bUSmRuPYYo/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_15.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2F_bPX-fywtnBiC5UkKcxluVNwWWp_Z8h9-gCep5WggBZouLuW9vASRpjVh63WVMjAMCcWY4k_2BoaScGLVEDFyeEhId4YPCr_vuiYyz-EeHsbdMozFRMIumLZHCSGoVv6bUSmRuPYYo/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_15.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU_C9DRFdLNtDZn0y9Fkl_JDmeAUh0WHh5GmpoNoo_PHdcV8F16q7gFcwbkykprJO0HTZpUn4jKlecM8lNpx4D8a6_UCPeMw4Rffqmc3D0hVhXbAh03nwwc09z7r6gGdJWk_iA2_Ocft4/s1600/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_16.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU_C9DRFdLNtDZn0y9Fkl_JDmeAUh0WHh5GmpoNoo_PHdcV8F16q7gFcwbkykprJO0HTZpUn4jKlecM8lNpx4D8a6_UCPeMw4Rffqmc3D0hVhXbAh03nwwc09z7r6gGdJWk_iA2_Ocft4/s400/blog0186_KoreanWarMemorialMuseum_16.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Despite its impressive array of artefacts, information boards and well laid out displays, the museum was somehow a frustrating blend of the positive and negative possibilities of museums. As far as a museums responsibility to deliver a sense of how things were at a time in history, it was a huge success, with ample artefacts and plentiful pictures well edited, arranged and curated. However, as far as a museum might be expected to deliver an objective reflection on past events, the politics dictating the editorial of the information boards was perhaps more evident in what was not said rather than what was. For the most part, the boards offered an exhaustive catalogue of events, delivered without much more imagination than a list of names, dates, times and quantities (or whichever appropriate combination). It took me until I was about half way round to realise that of all the many information boards I'd read, not one had mentioned a US/Allied victory and while there were plentiful reference to (dubiously large) numbers of enemy killed or captured at each battlefield, there was not even one mention of a single Chinese or North Korean casualty or strategic loss. Campaigns were always presented as victorious, with no explanation as to why there were multiple 'successful' campaigns, at different times, for the same territory, no mention of the (presumably) enforced retreat between the different 'successful' offensives.<br />
Throughout, the US/S.Korean/Allied forces are labelled as imperialist aggressors and oppressors while the Chinese/North Koreans are labelled as valiant volunteers and courageous defenders of freedom.<br />
The walk back to my hotel gave me plenty of time to reflect on what effect that kind of one-sided account would have on Chinese visitors to the museum.... no wonder it was free entry!Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comYuanbao, Dandong, Liaoning, China40.116931659472492 124.3595695170288340.045051659472492 124.26628951702884 40.188811659472492 124.45284951702882tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-15120670815726739652011-09-04T22:07:00.000+01:002011-09-04T22:07:48.946+01:00Everyone Equal and Some More Equal Than Others2009 09 17 – Day 83 – Dandong<br />
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Returning to Dandong from The Great Wall should have been, as with the outward journey, a simple bus ride. But with no clearly defined bus stop on the nearby road, and having been ignored by the solitary bus that went past, I found myself increasingly open to hitching a lift from any vehicle going my way. A countryside local farmhand (I assume) joined me squatting by the side of the road and I attempted to say something useful about a bus to Dandong in Chinese, but his response only confirmed that we didn't understand each other beyond the fact that we were headed in the same direction <br />
Eventually a taxi came by and I managed to flag it down. Although I was in no position to haggle with so few cars on the road, I gave it a go if only to minimise the degree to which I got ripped off. While negotiating I made it fairly clear with my arm gestures that my farmer friend would be coming too, but the driver was having none of it! I tried various ways of getting him to take both of us, including pushing for one price for me and a higher (but not double) price for the two of us, but the driver was immovable. His attitude stank of elitism, as if the country bumpkin wasn't worthy of a lift in his vehicle – so much for the egalitarianism of communism.<br />
With the taxi driver threatening to leave both of us stranded, I had to concede defeat. Offering an apologetic shrug to the farmhand, I clambered in and abandoned him to his fate.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comKuandian, Dandong, Liaoning, China40.231175840902509 124.513120618713439.75587934090251 123.8283226187134 40.706472340902508 125.1979186187134tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-55812097942035254342011-09-04T22:03:00.000+01:002011-09-04T22:03:07.839+01:00The Great Wall and North Korea2009 09 17 – Day 83 – Dandong<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacLhmKNexYikCK07iMdbDYHJQD_O3gEPliBJOIWBhmyN1HjOl9mC0iwSKuD-2BNG0ouuus5Qrth3o4jQljyU5cVjd2hZ749l930-NBKlNkfoQh8vfgbSTYZOeg3Ailae0nD16o6sHULY/s1600/blog0184_theGreatWallAndNorthKorea_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacLhmKNexYikCK07iMdbDYHJQD_O3gEPliBJOIWBhmyN1HjOl9mC0iwSKuD-2BNG0ouuus5Qrth3o4jQljyU5cVjd2hZ749l930-NBKlNkfoQh8vfgbSTYZOeg3Ailae0nD16o6sHULY/s400/blog0184_theGreatWallAndNorthKorea_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Not far from Dandong is the most northern and eastern section of The Great Wall. Dandong is about sixteen hours by train from Beijing and I found it mind boggling to reflect on the size of The Great Wall given that it runs not only to Beijing, but further west at least another twenty four hours of train journey! The question arises – Does the word 'Great' do it justice?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtBDkowdlaZpRZZuAV5UoG9VFl6ZOgD-0wEys8lhiEErrOVsFAtl-HINwVRFCI5HHhTXLENCCACHHYea5jjFwcc9re1e4UZ1N6uRwjkdy8Eing2-rf_3lUdg14ENu3Vb3fW6_OJOsOjyA/s1600/blog0184_theGreatWallAndNorthKorea_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtBDkowdlaZpRZZuAV5UoG9VFl6ZOgD-0wEys8lhiEErrOVsFAtl-HINwVRFCI5HHhTXLENCCACHHYea5jjFwcc9re1e4UZ1N6uRwjkdy8Eing2-rf_3lUdg14ENu3Vb3fW6_OJOsOjyA/s400/blog0184_theGreatWallAndNorthKorea_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Rising quickly, The Wall provides a Great vantage point to survey the juncture of China and North Korea. The hills of the former falling to meet the flat farmlands of the latter, separated by the silver ribbon of the Yalu River.<br />
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The only North Korean settlement in sight was a small farming village and, at the crest of the wall, a local entrepreneur provided an old, possibly military, telescope to satisfy the inevitable curiosity of tourists. For a small fee of course. Though it felt a little wrong, I couldn't resist a peek and paid the 3 RMB to spy on the unsuspecting villagers below. It felt like I was looking back in time. The way the people dressed, the tools they used, no evidence of basic modern improvements like road surfacing or telegraph or power lines. I tried to capture an image using the telescope to assist my camera and though I didn't manage to photograph exactly what I'd just been looking at, I managed to get something:<br />
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Before I could take any more shots, the telescope owner spotted what I was doing and made a noisy display of disapproval, shooing me off his prize asset.<br />
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Sometimes even the ambitious engineers of The Great Wall can't improve on nature's natural barriers:<br />
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<br />
Walking back around the base of the hill takes you literally within a stones throw of North Korea. About as close as you can get without actually trying to cross the border.<br />
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I don't know what the sign says, but I could swim it from here.<br />
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Teasing those who might be tempted to try and cross, this boats bottom was so holy it would be about as buoyant as a colander!<br />
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At busier times, these small boats would be offering tourists a slightly closer view of their neighbours, but without some pretty good yarns to go with it, I doubt if the few feet of proximity gained would be worth it.<br />
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Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comKuandian, Dandong, Liaoning, China40.221296927539541 124.5139360102539339.746000427539542 123.82913801025393 40.69659342753954 125.19873401025393tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-66753736267258095302011-09-04T21:18:00.000+01:002011-09-04T21:18:42.566+01:00Dark by Day, Light by Night2009 09 16 – Day 82 – Dandong<br />
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With smog strangling the strength of the sun, it seemed like Dandong's days might never be described as bright and twilight slid effortlessly into night.<br />
On came the lights and with them the city seemed to come to life, becoming simultaneously more lively and cheery.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjILGb2ScFxVBr1NkkK-ppxVB6W4Ss9g4TnAZH2CNDNSvnOL1Z6AIywiXI66zYSqNXRZUAE2BbCxjqDv0o-NopRgahUGqJ29o8Y2hpuHgg94NpA4iAjhGprGyTP-89Z-gx65Q9sP-4sVFE/s1600/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjILGb2ScFxVBr1NkkK-ppxVB6W4Ss9g4TnAZH2CNDNSvnOL1Z6AIywiXI66zYSqNXRZUAE2BbCxjqDv0o-NopRgahUGqJ29o8Y2hpuHgg94NpA4iAjhGprGyTP-89Z-gx65Q9sP-4sVFE/s400/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The China-North Korea Friendship Bridge became more friendly, though gaudy, with its lights gently cycling through the primary colours.<br />
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A nightly, musically enhanced fountain show provided a pleasant backdrop:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRsl-OwLXQQ0zCmBXpgWn-QvSX5ve7Ihnq7y684iyDZYJOUc0pr1PTpGZU_ZHF7mdvadH7dzVQImF-a3CAke9osaCc9qU4NBRiAvT567EKP9EoNO083H_1QJjp8zG1toNyTQmiSARMoM/s1600/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRsl-OwLXQQ0zCmBXpgWn-QvSX5ve7Ihnq7y684iyDZYJOUc0pr1PTpGZU_ZHF7mdvadH7dzVQImF-a3CAke9osaCc9qU4NBRiAvT567EKP9EoNO083H_1QJjp8zG1toNyTQmiSARMoM/s400/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1XgugfZuy0qQB4xufb_HsW7LnPq-QB4fvNeNtT6L0UtZLg5aSqGV0WcZqakPkTDsPozw8NovKsl1gxcL60TXZb4rn1xXGXHmsh0ap-zKKVCTejCHksdrofvmZ_lV4oh0bBV5-G4siWo/s1600/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1XgugfZuy0qQB4xufb_HsW7LnPq-QB4fvNeNtT6L0UtZLg5aSqGV0WcZqakPkTDsPozw8NovKsl1gxcL60TXZb4rn1xXGXHmsh0ap-zKKVCTejCHksdrofvmZ_lV4oh0bBV5-G4siWo/s400/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAtBrwtopJB8omSXnt4pesih0OINF99JJ13DY5j3nAAJtD5jy1aRf-6OY9QPhwpel4q1-L2bEwq34Uv1U0aobtle6HBeHTwCqTU4otvPRiRLCtrWriTUTMQ1VjIWg7vPrJNnnDJJgka8g/s1600/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAtBrwtopJB8omSXnt4pesih0OINF99JJ13DY5j3nAAJtD5jy1aRf-6OY9QPhwpel4q1-L2bEwq34Uv1U0aobtle6HBeHTwCqTU4otvPRiRLCtrWriTUTMQ1VjIWg7vPrJNnnDJJgka8g/s400/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
But it wasn't clear if the purpose was to entertain the (few) tourists, the locals or to show off to the North Koreans across the river.<br />
There were plenty of locals about, but most didn't pay much attention to the fountains, entertaining themselves, often in group activities like this tai chi group:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_3XkN2oRMrtz1rUQUE79IxD6bl1nnkQsFg_BnzNDIXJJLhyphenhyphen0sJTkRCajwWknMXtqFq-wLNyQIrsIisW8_SI5Jgs6jTw9EL0zHpvoI5a1WwiE6pn0xuTd0ZilUYy3yAjchAaJVZXMN8Q/s1600/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_3XkN2oRMrtz1rUQUE79IxD6bl1nnkQsFg_BnzNDIXJJLhyphenhyphen0sJTkRCajwWknMXtqFq-wLNyQIrsIisW8_SI5Jgs6jTw9EL0zHpvoI5a1WwiE6pn0xuTd0ZilUYy3yAjchAaJVZXMN8Q/s400/blog0183_darkByDayLightByNight_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comYuanbao, Dandong, Liaoning, China40.121772244679953 124.3925928744201940.049892244679953 124.2993128744202 40.193652244679953 124.48587287442018tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-74491474411273412592011-04-19T23:53:00.004+01:002011-09-04T22:19:16.896+01:00Around Dandong2009 09 16 – Day 82 – Dandong<br />
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After a comfortable overnight train from Chengde, I arrived in the industrial city of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dandong">Dandong</a> which sits on the Yalu River that defines the border with North Korea.<br />
The sun seemed to be fighting a losing battle with the smog.<br />
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Not particularly keen to spend more than the one night necessary to see all there was to see, I managed to buy a train ticket away for the next evening and then set about finding a place to stay. Happily, that didn't prove too difficult, as Lonely Planet's information proved accurate. <br />
It was quickly becoming clear that Dandong was far less prepared for international travellers than Beijing or a more obvious tourist destination like Chengde. This was emphasised when, as I was heading out to explore, I accidentally broke my key in the lock of the door to my room! I found a cleaner and showed them the problem, neither of us understanding a word the other was saying. After that, all I could do was wait as a succession of people came to try their hand at fixing the problem. Had I been in an English speaking hotel, I would have felt comfortable leaving them to fix the door while I went out, but limited by our mutual lack of language, I wanted to do more to be sure my stuff was secure. Eventually, thankfully, the bit of key was extracted and I was able to move my stuff to a different room and head out to explore. The staff were very pleasant throughout the whole incident. I had worried there would be shouting and finger pointing and demands of money, but there was none of that and they even returned my full deposit when I checked out the next day.<br />
Despite the setback in time and the blanket of smog enveloping the city, there was still light enough to explore:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0fNOkODO6ou3JiLHxz2_Bwh7YRioKHofbbC3RYbh53reALmidP6czZ4LBRlvNL2JINFIXNEyNEcBOvjNJm29oUZvduI4esEHaTtz4cIGzOgAdTLIZvBdRQ_5lYD-8SWKws5hPCRxTEvI/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0fNOkODO6ou3JiLHxz2_Bwh7YRioKHofbbC3RYbh53reALmidP6czZ4LBRlvNL2JINFIXNEyNEcBOvjNJm29oUZvduI4esEHaTtz4cIGzOgAdTLIZvBdRQ_5lYD-8SWKws5hPCRxTEvI/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh53MK3DjDKUoa8XveZRCcpl3PUiVpxHULIgZlCxq2hw2d9PB3Z1IdhNWHKxk_nxt2C-eJ7ILLnx-KYd1Wv8SPydvOE8G5bM1hm89RPVYAxicRWmGH9UkHEwt8uWxYnAAbthoD7vPAbwUA/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh53MK3DjDKUoa8XveZRCcpl3PUiVpxHULIgZlCxq2hw2d9PB3Z1IdhNWHKxk_nxt2C-eJ7ILLnx-KYd1Wv8SPydvOE8G5bM1hm89RPVYAxicRWmGH9UkHEwt8uWxYnAAbthoD7vPAbwUA/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The Yalu River side<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHCrvHCjq-NJFZgL2z2BGh9NP13EPyoatoQnjHs3ANtVfEV-t8T5tJuVKOaaUWXEJmpfZrjw-ykmBVQYCzhb14Na_88HjoeR5xu7H-07YE10SIlHmFrb0cDUKrhx5iNG4kCAQsEzCCNow/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHCrvHCjq-NJFZgL2z2BGh9NP13EPyoatoQnjHs3ANtVfEV-t8T5tJuVKOaaUWXEJmpfZrjw-ykmBVQYCzhb14Na_88HjoeR5xu7H-07YE10SIlHmFrb0cDUKrhx5iNG4kCAQsEzCCNow/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The North Korean side of the river is visible in the background. There is supposedly a city on the other side, but the horizon was mostly a tree line, with the occasional building just about discernible. Maybe on a clear day there are more buildings visible... if they have clear days.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO53Wn_ruKSAAFbZRXDel38P2q-EOt16X1m8lMEdCqcsTJAkhcm8NCu3V5ARB2MzROVdxKHJJng01yTzcNVZJDExWE4Syc1QwpYj64mVUvKohz0hv8lLTVeK3VGEtQw47AJDwAt5XBLtI/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO53Wn_ruKSAAFbZRXDel38P2q-EOt16X1m8lMEdCqcsTJAkhcm8NCu3V5ARB2MzROVdxKHJJng01yTzcNVZJDExWE4Syc1QwpYj64mVUvKohz0hv8lLTVeK3VGEtQw47AJDwAt5XBLtI/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsrOpGuHBKZi5OxCs_p-3q4iG4urcVtzr6TRbD7b1EseGcec_OKCfBJz33DCQI4V_yWFxnPxKkzraiBd3x9p_JDh1dbHAU1kxmHYpgam9oCgdSe5wH2uN6JKGDulWpqsLQTlo9lQxBkNI/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsrOpGuHBKZi5OxCs_p-3q4iG4urcVtzr6TRbD7b1EseGcec_OKCfBJz33DCQI4V_yWFxnPxKkzraiBd3x9p_JDh1dbHAU1kxmHYpgam9oCgdSe5wH2uN6JKGDulWpqsLQTlo9lQxBkNI/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>This a tourism jetty. You can take tours along the river and close to the North Korean side. I gave it a miss.<br />
Behind are the two bridges on the river. One of the bridges only extends part way into the river as it was not repaired after the Korean War. The complete, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sino-Korea_Friendship_Bridge">China-North Korea Friendship Bridge</a>, carries rail and road traffic between the two countries. I saw plenty of trucks crossing from China into North Korea, but no other type of vehicle and nothing coming back the other way.<br />
<br />
The next day, I got a few other views of the city<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioBOv4VJ6fKQWYzcgP8qNI06CpdJ3-7NPen7jWFhVpz-Dh5hVY9FhnH5E9Br71cBb8GI-gBYldAvnHD5XfFlm-jsnWBCc53Eur5142lw2N-Qx1rvGT7IimbsZd-kgHzbUCp4SRqWmTJSA/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioBOv4VJ6fKQWYzcgP8qNI06CpdJ3-7NPen7jWFhVpz-Dh5hVY9FhnH5E9Br71cBb8GI-gBYldAvnHD5XfFlm-jsnWBCc53Eur5142lw2N-Qx1rvGT7IimbsZd-kgHzbUCp4SRqWmTJSA/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWXBc5Buj-GpeYKJa2SjV_DLF3npKHI1fq1BaBn_R9h8vZWw5euJQsVFCaEyTe79DH7V0xW49LBcOTeUXCV846_2pa7oPSDNIsv3qLRpLDJWxlKEPNkOFXYwhSJnLhXet4CwVjYI-eJE/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWXBc5Buj-GpeYKJa2SjV_DLF3npKHI1fq1BaBn_R9h8vZWw5euJQsVFCaEyTe79DH7V0xW49LBcOTeUXCV846_2pa7oPSDNIsv3qLRpLDJWxlKEPNkOFXYwhSJnLhXet4CwVjYI-eJE/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_08.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKOvs4jZwVrhyphenhyphen7ueNayoQdawhAJAFcB4wRRf_WtzSgQoPjclnJOV0kKzdNZEw4_vIJfWSFEVCpZ-7J3NKyyGYaVH2oN1kGRIwKrdYAlhZ5rn0z1-73GP9TV8aNHZruXcbPkHs8uDRAs3Y/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_09.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKOvs4jZwVrhyphenhyphen7ueNayoQdawhAJAFcB4wRRf_WtzSgQoPjclnJOV0kKzdNZEw4_vIJfWSFEVCpZ-7J3NKyyGYaVH2oN1kGRIwKrdYAlhZ5rn0z1-73GP9TV8aNHZruXcbPkHs8uDRAs3Y/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_09.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Above are some of the few older buildings in the central area, before Dandong, like most Chinese cities it seems, became more vertically inclined.<br />
<br />
There is quite a Korean feeling about parts of the centre and certainly plenty of Korean influence in the places to eat.<br />
Some shops more obviously welcomed Koreans than others.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsM-oJuaw3HkoZQnfRVkMDsBZIexJ8TvBkO4siG7ogCJgxHjDgaqwuZJ6CXqll8M0AdRczfNLaVZvI8R_GS25-gEwWYaVaHS8IoHfwV0OVbOunkHjUHGAz9f3hwYuV4CnJxFX7Ob90Hhc/s1600/blog0182_AroundDandong_10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsM-oJuaw3HkoZQnfRVkMDsBZIexJ8TvBkO4siG7ogCJgxHjDgaqwuZJ6CXqll8M0AdRczfNLaVZvI8R_GS25-gEwWYaVaHS8IoHfwV0OVbOunkHjUHGAz9f3hwYuV4CnJxFX7Ob90Hhc/s400/blog0182_AroundDandong_10.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-20618323273206840292011-04-19T23:30:00.001+01:002011-04-19T23:36:10.871+01:00Chengde Signs2009 09 15 – Day 81 – Chengde<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs71TzN_GDQ9t_qA4wOcUE4QPZCU4FWDgPCk5jr2cxy8zElnAJgAt3EfA5g3Y4gdq0qzVLlI68ZuKYrr5FtHSC9qSZ7V8bBHk87stN81PgGNSPBpSSa0DvkDqI8boW_ANANQOysEfoMsY/s1600/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs71TzN_GDQ9t_qA4wOcUE4QPZCU4FWDgPCk5jr2cxy8zElnAJgAt3EfA5g3Y4gdq0qzVLlI68ZuKYrr5FtHSC9qSZ7V8bBHk87stN81PgGNSPBpSSa0DvkDqI8boW_ANANQOysEfoMsY/s400/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I agree! It would be entirely inappropriate in the courtyard of a <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/04/hill-temple.html">temple</a>, as would this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvouiJdqcCQn2mOdQvl6hcuShgS1r5_B-s_NkDSujUO3NrNSzTw-IBMeJ9WP47YKMqQv4orRhdLM9IEYHvcwJ377_EsJwBOmenbM51wNVjp79N4xqOUhlLdSgM0DHtjLUKhY0QUs8-zE/s1600/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvouiJdqcCQn2mOdQvl6hcuShgS1r5_B-s_NkDSujUO3NrNSzTw-IBMeJ9WP47YKMqQv4orRhdLM9IEYHvcwJ377_EsJwBOmenbM51wNVjp79N4xqOUhlLdSgM0DHtjLUKhY0QUs8-zE/s400/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Can we jump up? Or fall down? Or climb down?<br />
<br />
While wandering the palaces of <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/04/imperial-retreat.html">Bìshǔ Shānzhuāng</a>, I became a bit exasperated at the unimaginative information boards, too many of which stole small portions of my life by just describing what my eyes would be telling me if they weren't busy reading the stupid text! All was forgiven however, when I came across this beauty:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQb2vd7SM24XrgLbuFpDujmg3Wy67UBEyfHcqIyIsT676toe05vFbCxq3ys7MaYyvc645WLnyyhv7aYGb2MibF6oxkA1YzfAZ2bAQwHsgz4HpMVsI6nmQlM3ABvLG43V072pDH7PqzOto/s1600/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQb2vd7SM24XrgLbuFpDujmg3Wy67UBEyfHcqIyIsT676toe05vFbCxq3ys7MaYyvc645WLnyyhv7aYGb2MibF6oxkA1YzfAZ2bAQwHsgz4HpMVsI6nmQlM3ABvLG43V072pDH7PqzOto/s400/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The sign reads: “The former address of the Emporer's toilet.”<br />
Now I'm no postie, but I'm sure this address received plenty of 'Special Deliveries'!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZWK_U5H2NBHSx7LKI79ZRkR-U4eDbXMKSlPEBSOBv-zgavmsmKfAzIhGRlubPCb23gCo1ldDPmwEJ4tfSefBQ0Ukujv0dqhJc-uTRxV4uO55JkyyuhJPwBdoc1vPxWarJd-qrb7Yc8M/s1600/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZWK_U5H2NBHSx7LKI79ZRkR-U4eDbXMKSlPEBSOBv-zgavmsmKfAzIhGRlubPCb23gCo1ldDPmwEJ4tfSefBQ0Ukujv0dqhJc-uTRxV4uO55JkyyuhJPwBdoc1vPxWarJd-qrb7Yc8M/s400/blog0181_ChengdeSigns_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>While waiting for the train onward from Chengde to Dandong I spied the sign beneath the tv, which reads 'DO NOT GOB ANYWHERE'. This tickled me, partly because I was surprised to run into that particular slang verb, and partly because it seemed the perfect word to describe the rather too enthusiastic and vocal clearing of Chinese throats all over their streets. I had seen and heard enough of such action to feel it was a problem, even though I understand the situation is much improved in recent years.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-18739787191718800472011-04-19T23:19:00.000+01:002011-04-19T23:19:48.587+01:00Imperial Retreat2009 09 15 – Day 81 – Chengde<br />
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Chinese Emperors spent significant time in the cooler valley climate of Chengde, escaping the summer heat of Beijing, which is why there are so many historical sites in the area. Much of their time was spent in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chengde_Mountain_Resort">Bìshǔ Shānzhuāng</a>, which translates as 'Mountain Resort for Avoiding the Heat'. The resort is spread over a large area, including palaces, administrative and ceremonial buildings and is landscaped in such a way as to mimic the hugely varied terrain and undergrowth of all the Emperor's territory - there are grasslands, woods, hills and lakes. The various buildings and artifacts on display were interesting enough, but the real pleasure for me was wandering the grounds in glorious sunshine.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayohC6bPN9s6b7Mw6FUJPXuPFmk7RCxOHiFT17F3BrLWpjGLxvEd2PaJsCAwE8J9AcWKpofN_hcGIo-FyI60l10sVt4UxeAe1pqblI8-95Sp8G_o6P61I1UmciGMym8-03t97ZQU2qQY/s1600/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayohC6bPN9s6b7Mw6FUJPXuPFmk7RCxOHiFT17F3BrLWpjGLxvEd2PaJsCAwE8J9AcWKpofN_hcGIo-FyI60l10sVt4UxeAe1pqblI8-95Sp8G_o6P61I1UmciGMym8-03t97ZQU2qQY/s400/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>There were various minibuses and boats to help you get around, but I felt more inclined to explore by foot.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jCsze7Kaao6a1jDee8wzzHCosnnOk-EU_n0Pb5xKoyhd5Kq0OUHHD6rxLiGQsAlBsakr7eryrlDTMSUW5hv6i91QT1iYVnWgmVxWzWGGmYCkleY-IEdsoXRmzWY9zZi_PFIShhwGlYQ/s1600/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jCsze7Kaao6a1jDee8wzzHCosnnOk-EU_n0Pb5xKoyhd5Kq0OUHHD6rxLiGQsAlBsakr7eryrlDTMSUW5hv6i91QT1iYVnWgmVxWzWGGmYCkleY-IEdsoXRmzWY9zZi_PFIShhwGlYQ/s400/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Being by myself and moving softly enabled this chance encounter:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOZ6OlK9EMu2ekwdrExeV191WesPiN41KmXnqgcR7lrpMiW7Vdjdb5ZcI6ptYpOK0PSaQAGDUmfZvLTbRMa70ety1Ym3Ac_w_-P-ikiAT2sFuyL8gJprIVckyTVliQEu7DbLHIxj6eAk/s1600/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOZ6OlK9EMu2ekwdrExeV191WesPiN41KmXnqgcR7lrpMiW7Vdjdb5ZcI6ptYpOK0PSaQAGDUmfZvLTbRMa70ety1Ym3Ac_w_-P-ikiAT2sFuyL8gJprIVckyTVliQEu7DbLHIxj6eAk/s400/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_03.JPG" width="267" /></a></div>I was amazed to be able to get so close (this is taken with a wide lens), but it didn't hang around for long, gliding gracefully into a wooded area nearby as other people approached less softly.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTtDGqL1Ia7c6i8jfe5V4gQZv3Q-ctZY6j1XWOX7Q2Wb5WLkvCyt3P5pfYcTgSTHJWPz2sjcHmt7YqyG-Dzw8dAX_cTfrKWIRiU7RrYbZ4sw0zFocFUgFI0h48GDfLCo60XqX6Kry1wQ/s1600/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTtDGqL1Ia7c6i8jfe5V4gQZv3Q-ctZY6j1XWOX7Q2Wb5WLkvCyt3P5pfYcTgSTHJWPz2sjcHmt7YqyG-Dzw8dAX_cTfrKWIRiU7RrYbZ4sw0zFocFUgFI0h48GDfLCo60XqX6Kry1wQ/s400/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>It was quite something to watch this fishy feeding frenzy provoked by tourists. I think they were using fish food... I hope so.<br />
<br />
All in all, the gardens of the resort were a lovely place to spend a few hours wandering and sitting in g the shade reflecting.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSdcNfCOb2_LF1sBkVkS2Rz4XUP8ntYwzelQddA4YKWkBikjgtYGb7BM0MnivsIrdNDXudwxhT875aU6t9jINNvWHNLjnyAyqxvf1ZMi_hf0aUsBFPqkmfKweCLnnpU7ev3sgoCfQn4c/s1600/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSdcNfCOb2_LF1sBkVkS2Rz4XUP8ntYwzelQddA4YKWkBikjgtYGb7BM0MnivsIrdNDXudwxhT875aU6t9jINNvWHNLjnyAyqxvf1ZMi_hf0aUsBFPqkmfKweCLnnpU7ev3sgoCfQn4c/s400/blog0180_ImperialRetreat_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-38574183481283034492011-04-06T10:37:00.001+01:002011-04-06T10:40:47.825+01:00Mini Potala Palace2009 09 15 – Day 81 – Chengde<br />
<br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Putuo_Zongcheng_Temple">Putuo Zongcheng Temple</a>, modelled on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potala_Palace">Potala Palace</a> in Lhasa, is a definite highlight of Chengde.<br />
The view from the car park is impressive:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoohQlGKQJ9eBu7O-UMNw1bZZ3bgFKU318eXQ7nIBeBmJq2qUiKUNWjmxucs5xe2v-B7SfA2E9jo5yOwwLhWYyoJU7G4IqBYnOnkVeppRZJnzISHJ_inHhUgV99ae_Ae5Spjk4rper_Vw/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoohQlGKQJ9eBu7O-UMNw1bZZ3bgFKU318eXQ7nIBeBmJq2qUiKUNWjmxucs5xe2v-B7SfA2E9jo5yOwwLhWYyoJU7G4IqBYnOnkVeppRZJnzISHJ_inHhUgV99ae_Ae5Spjk4rper_Vw/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>but not quite as impressive as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Putuo_Zongcheng_Temple.jpg">this view</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6u69NxUWmz_NwnWCfBeoxiLJMhT-lhYk5UyfwhbT5LSQb9R15bObc086f7t-ZDu1dgKSA757KQQ0gHV0FVuFTVb4JyIoT1ed_cFAJjLYkpCg_E5ZZFzwvIkVYzVNpYHSTeRJ_06u4hio/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6u69NxUWmz_NwnWCfBeoxiLJMhT-lhYk5UyfwhbT5LSQb9R15bObc086f7t-ZDu1dgKSA757KQQ0gHV0FVuFTVb4JyIoT1ed_cFAJjLYkpCg_E5ZZFzwvIkVYzVNpYHSTeRJ_06u4hio/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8avku-KVaG2Q55qPj9SRw_DDOGz0Rtux6BxlIZh9bkATsGyzZ-9MLZJFzKIT3PIyKCc1RMehSzror5STHtquZFjLoPjBImw0-GuSlRqEsZc354kINJKWlmjkGUA8ERkrIc89FUoaepFo/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8avku-KVaG2Q55qPj9SRw_DDOGz0Rtux6BxlIZh9bkATsGyzZ-9MLZJFzKIT3PIyKCc1RMehSzror5STHtquZFjLoPjBImw0-GuSlRqEsZc354kINJKWlmjkGUA8ERkrIc89FUoaepFo/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_03.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The top of a gateway<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8frYkWziZzj7f1r28hbI1bnm9UWNNalZuF_Ua5tYE5Vr3VkSKBlc8EagwFVA_273UBi5C79TiniuG7wNcA2A0QHI7KXVRmivQjofIU3zkTeI0ln337lNMaCo8Ue9VHN4U2pgZebm6W9A/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8frYkWziZzj7f1r28hbI1bnm9UWNNalZuF_Ua5tYE5Vr3VkSKBlc8EagwFVA_273UBi5C79TiniuG7wNcA2A0QHI7KXVRmivQjofIU3zkTeI0ln337lNMaCo8Ue9VHN4U2pgZebm6W9A/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The Imperial way to ascend. Sadly there were no porters.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbuIL3aeOGjRVeqDkBcswXppJjCPaMTcW54sbT1eR8G562GdsA8_Lchk0C_x6y7-65c9dCcrWo9RSa2koPirZ_p2z9bLeGO6zj4r-9LvHi01BHiGauZg79t8kVAm4lJ47m5QhOndK6RQ/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbuIL3aeOGjRVeqDkBcswXppJjCPaMTcW54sbT1eR8G562GdsA8_Lchk0C_x6y7-65c9dCcrWo9RSa2koPirZ_p2z9bLeGO6zj4r-9LvHi01BHiGauZg79t8kVAm4lJ47m5QhOndK6RQ/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I can't help but feel a little uncomfortable looking at this sculpture. It seems to me as if the elephant's forelimbs are broken.... and yet an image search for '<a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&sugexp=ldymls&pq=vue&xhr=t&q=elephant+lying+down&cp=11&safe=on&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=li&biw=1024&bih=474">elephant lying down</a>' reveals that the sculptor wasn't entirely wayward.<br />
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Approaching the temple involves a stroll uphill through pleasant gardens,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFLLlny6ni0scWXuXWfuUkwcVMA77REI-XO_4LTN_ZY5Dgr1KtkvtylIPFo5-eDlO1hDprkN116RYFmGVB8xTTh5HmH6B2M5OXk8zrbcZW5aekrOWF7j-vvCI3Up0oVuE9OaQfqOZ9kQ/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFLLlny6ni0scWXuXWfuUkwcVMA77REI-XO_4LTN_ZY5Dgr1KtkvtylIPFo5-eDlO1hDprkN116RYFmGVB8xTTh5HmH6B2M5OXk8zrbcZW5aekrOWF7j-vvCI3Up0oVuE9OaQfqOZ9kQ/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>followed by a steep climb up stone stairs<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGaNbLTDJLkkn28pv0okP82Mvm26QIVoLnX9fdLwHuz8GbM5vFpILZv1891JIrowBex9hWqPuQUQqtXwgCjw4gYnr9VyIbKVbJjAysFACXPmD9vbvJLkbAPC5aW7oa363lFhQCKlCft8g/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGaNbLTDJLkkn28pv0okP82Mvm26QIVoLnX9fdLwHuz8GbM5vFpILZv1891JIrowBex9hWqPuQUQqtXwgCjw4gYnr9VyIbKVbJjAysFACXPmD9vbvJLkbAPC5aW7oa363lFhQCKlCft8g/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRlsYMviPPn_3i-OrvvuVWhITlO49VKc3flSKRvL5wgnkK62bdWOtqQEo_tWVZefi1WiBEIzoijfCIKYOUHZ0RrnUyJF65lqipV5Ou9NsO85xsJLd_sDzeGVTsVCsnsfACxZgI1snYrM/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRlsYMviPPn_3i-OrvvuVWhITlO49VKc3flSKRvL5wgnkK62bdWOtqQEo_tWVZefi1WiBEIzoijfCIKYOUHZ0RrnUyJF65lqipV5Ou9NsO85xsJLd_sDzeGVTsVCsnsfACxZgI1snYrM/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_08.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
Inside is much more human than the formidable sheer outer walls would have you believe<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMPb_NuNWzcRu2E_Ag4UNOoG-_ORdraDQh0RnazcqZfMXcx7gM-XD3LqJH9wzwmb3hmJrFcCsW4aY6AJkal1Lm8lDWWq3KGnErndhtDfXHekjFRojgoTo-b0fuTDJf_L10YC1bRsffGg/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMPb_NuNWzcRu2E_Ag4UNOoG-_ORdraDQh0RnazcqZfMXcx7gM-XD3LqJH9wzwmb3hmJrFcCsW4aY6AJkal1Lm8lDWWq3KGnErndhtDfXHekjFRojgoTo-b0fuTDJf_L10YC1bRsffGg/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>and worth exploring.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh38-MIiDOzgvuQv0WTEcDczBGtlDsZT6_nA3vsW1s3vJnKqKMDeDTUWDKBoCIu-WBFaDTsknwI9BfZCbZVR583_VYU1_DIHZhsTbjrfCAt6ECo0i4chEgXDABbPko9yPzohcua-XbSQeU/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh38-MIiDOzgvuQv0WTEcDczBGtlDsZT6_nA3vsW1s3vJnKqKMDeDTUWDKBoCIu-WBFaDTsknwI9BfZCbZVR583_VYU1_DIHZhsTbjrfCAt6ECo0i4chEgXDABbPko9yPzohcua-XbSQeU/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-edW4EZwyyqhFu-GE8TDG0hxu6FeNjwXiqGmD3vClePsateA6WRonEtYUdCMK4fya8V-V53WzeEyOz77kWQNKEJNgaXGJBIbsKX0kOJtkHaJvuqWWLAe8saAXUL5BMTAfV6TV9VoIO8U/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-edW4EZwyyqhFu-GE8TDG0hxu6FeNjwXiqGmD3vClePsateA6WRonEtYUdCMK4fya8V-V53WzeEyOz77kWQNKEJNgaXGJBIbsKX0kOJtkHaJvuqWWLAe8saAXUL5BMTAfV6TV9VoIO8U/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_11.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>This exposed pillar paintwork tells you everything you need to know about the strength of the sun here, standing in it too long and why there are so few windows in the building.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqu1XDufJNL0WhR7NpI_u61hlfoZs5ks1BhKK9sR7NserzFfcGrCI1b8gYbUTwAF6V2WsjzwKIqrCUPzNQfkkmjKL8KdY1Svmcl1w22fAlFvtiqRE3YHJDZfoBB75frQazpaGka4buAUM/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqu1XDufJNL0WhR7NpI_u61hlfoZs5ks1BhKK9sR7NserzFfcGrCI1b8gYbUTwAF6V2WsjzwKIqrCUPzNQfkkmjKL8KdY1Svmcl1w22fAlFvtiqRE3YHJDZfoBB75frQazpaGka4buAUM/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_12.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Imperial stage for Imperial performances... presumably for, rather than by the Emperor.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioDwwRkr9Dm9WThXB_xPZGGz8zi-jzeRv10vFypwaNshaBfnEw9gIiymWFz0DTuPEr8gUT6moEDkWmEA-GDo5LZUcxSrPlY9IdKYqIpqWdBl1zK_ZvHYXrjtTGF9pfWuwFjV4XPZClUBw/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioDwwRkr9Dm9WThXB_xPZGGz8zi-jzeRv10vFypwaNshaBfnEw9gIiymWFz0DTuPEr8gUT6moEDkWmEA-GDo5LZUcxSrPlY9IdKYqIpqWdBl1zK_ZvHYXrjtTGF9pfWuwFjV4XPZClUBw/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_13.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkA7HL3FEWBUhAkjoV0OjLRWfcju_5oxBcJ_6Gn9eEW1e2sjSFmVamYdsKV-ScQfkcpy0rm8NnSbMWW-g6RvSCIQmnBX9PhOJbFsFvro3o-5wHZww_aqYXrQvTrctyMGtxqzzxgExtfKA/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkA7HL3FEWBUhAkjoV0OjLRWfcju_5oxBcJ_6Gn9eEW1e2sjSFmVamYdsKV-ScQfkcpy0rm8NnSbMWW-g6RvSCIQmnBX9PhOJbFsFvro3o-5wHZww_aqYXrQvTrctyMGtxqzzxgExtfKA/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_14.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Up on the roof there's little chance to escape the heat of the sun,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyT4wYyOvmb-KWcfmZvhOkG_FDKfSUMFCR-Ad5GTRuZgjZhTKjYqegGXNuhM0ytYqnuxgqs8NNwc2wc25rWEz8LCR-_WCy-5inOKUGsnWu3adi3daQox_H93n1593eqOhV5UcCyFUGpg/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyT4wYyOvmb-KWcfmZvhOkG_FDKfSUMFCR-Ad5GTRuZgjZhTKjYqegGXNuhM0ytYqnuxgqs8NNwc2wc25rWEz8LCR-_WCy-5inOKUGsnWu3adi3daQox_H93n1593eqOhV5UcCyFUGpg/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_15.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>so I didn't stay up there long - completing a short lap and briefly enjoying the views -<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpoKVbqN7nUU52JUzEQ8XLIVbhLrT-gCPzgevMHUQ9c1HosBcWn-4eERihFbida0AyTdmcwbCA4LC1UDeFBRvG1HWpc2Q_MsAszQiw6iS9bsXgnyjD32G2ezUWvjPJhqnFFkvC5_6-qJw/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpoKVbqN7nUU52JUzEQ8XLIVbhLrT-gCPzgevMHUQ9c1HosBcWn-4eERihFbida0AyTdmcwbCA4LC1UDeFBRvG1HWpc2Q_MsAszQiw6iS9bsXgnyjD32G2ezUWvjPJhqnFFkvC5_6-qJw/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_16.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>like this one, across another of the Eight Outer Temples of Chengde to Sledgehammer Peak, before descending to join my little tour group.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx5aonlMXsHffN_2gtOT3xU2bpKeCi5HwaSdvKXkeIdGYXtwYbdHzoTeJ4zXgHUfoSXhIoqe69dD8V1G9WSiiFD-PYmsnry7zOTU5-r1SWMQbVVKhjk6-ScE264xXMCqal3v13C-qIhhs/s1600/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx5aonlMXsHffN_2gtOT3xU2bpKeCi5HwaSdvKXkeIdGYXtwYbdHzoTeJ4zXgHUfoSXhIoqe69dD8V1G9WSiiFD-PYmsnry7zOTU5-r1SWMQbVVKhjk6-ScE264xXMCqal3v13C-qIhhs/s400/blog0179_miniPotalaPalace_17.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-68955629836150881242011-04-06T09:56:00.001+01:002011-04-06T10:02:21.781+01:00Can't See the Wood for the Musicians2009 09 15 – Day 81 – Chengde<br />
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After the underwhelming <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/04/hill-temple.html">Hill Temple</a>, I wasn't expecting a lot from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puning_Temple">Puning Temple</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOrhyphenhyphenrCVKpikIltTtG4K9MKICiY9qafW-MapkWtAF91zSqLSuXGnJVACHbyyekSYRhi0O5GbLqs1pFraDwT3pQRz4sOpO9Gu-9sR1CgZ6c3MFXrl-hVLTPLnuFWIiOtgBSwxABbmvAJew/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOrhyphenhyphenrCVKpikIltTtG4K9MKICiY9qafW-MapkWtAF91zSqLSuXGnJVACHbyyekSYRhi0O5GbLqs1pFraDwT3pQRz4sOpO9Gu-9sR1CgZ6c3MFXrl-hVLTPLnuFWIiOtgBSwxABbmvAJew/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I think they were preparing for the upcoming 60th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China celebrations, but I'm not sure.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKOVQlT7OMtjWLVwI3csHb4_wuAAEOnRuhsL6-b8EBqD6JfVxp-ebBD-AT1lA4H0fCHfLGIYVLmwbDwY74XxXH7_2sXlnSb85-wuEWifISJVEnkP0QMoyQZSWNZjOfDn7X2z1tYsiefk4/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKOVQlT7OMtjWLVwI3csHb4_wuAAEOnRuhsL6-b8EBqD6JfVxp-ebBD-AT1lA4H0fCHfLGIYVLmwbDwY74XxXH7_2sXlnSb85-wuEWifISJVEnkP0QMoyQZSWNZjOfDn7X2z1tYsiefk4/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The main temple building, in front of which some musicians were playing:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuncy4MhkiJXWnifuY5leHovVXPUag7jtf6brk8mkDYWVtuWmlueIsM1KGNz5Nfi-rM9ezuJiw_vnefQXZhoEoVcsEp0N5x8E23ZofzozSL4JW5sd0DxIVxKef0-NFFoztVCVLNVicZBg/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuncy4MhkiJXWnifuY5leHovVXPUag7jtf6brk8mkDYWVtuWmlueIsM1KGNz5Nfi-rM9ezuJiw_vnefQXZhoEoVcsEp0N5x8E23ZofzozSL4JW5sd0DxIVxKef0-NFFoztVCVLNVicZBg/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I was quite interested in some of their instruments and the sounds they were making, but couldn't stand around all day and so moved on to explore elsewhere.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihtc2EGOraM2SuWhrukzcAcZxfz2wO3TGngeTxUkWRDUzHlhwLmdUeqMHshKLQ2_2W9cOLn8zAAVjKr_AU7e9aGFmqXwePoL647Eb-U_6E7JaoHj0QhHo1fV9JI8qD_RE-ggqovEEO2CI/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihtc2EGOraM2SuWhrukzcAcZxfz2wO3TGngeTxUkWRDUzHlhwLmdUeqMHshKLQ2_2W9cOLn8zAAVjKr_AU7e9aGFmqXwePoL647Eb-U_6E7JaoHj0QhHo1fV9JI8qD_RE-ggqovEEO2CI/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia62O0AI1J6Kb0OAwqW8VQN-lwLpjH3vVkLQoiHeJZYio37ATsf4v1ibZLMfmii9abZjcyNBKRleh0TmSsQ1ELR2um08sUHQAFirxL08kICgDsByYS0H8sBhJ9CXGmCNxTlAQzOXLkRB4/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia62O0AI1J6Kb0OAwqW8VQN-lwLpjH3vVkLQoiHeJZYio37ATsf4v1ibZLMfmii9abZjcyNBKRleh0TmSsQ1ELR2um08sUHQAFirxL08kICgDsByYS0H8sBhJ9CXGmCNxTlAQzOXLkRB4/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAMZPt6P2jFNzd-6ZKUiNxO9CTMDHMK87CPqLMZemH01u8_rU1JI6ZQ4ea_KuQRHbLxQ2Ltxu-nDvG_oxc2uRE16tRq3jmu9e9jCrFTXizVjj_j-THkvQDC3ywaEB48kODKVuoTDuZg4Y/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAMZPt6P2jFNzd-6ZKUiNxO9CTMDHMK87CPqLMZemH01u8_rU1JI6ZQ4ea_KuQRHbLxQ2Ltxu-nDvG_oxc2uRE16tRq3jmu9e9jCrFTXizVjj_j-THkvQDC3ywaEB48kODKVuoTDuZg4Y/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I'd imagine whatever is at the bottom of that pile is pretty secure!<br />
But it wasn't just that pile, there were padlocks all over the place on railings, lanterns and anything that seemed a permanent fixture in the gardens behind the temple.<br />
<br />
To leave the temple complex, tourists are herded along a mock ancient street lined with shops overflowing with everything a tourist could want<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxfVJCHHkpipN2N5XbJWSgiVi5_5o3zfXKy_8ke8jQwhWoDilyGgKdLTWzwdShYMc7aXEavtZX9Th1r4L66n4CNZng4xm0JxpEHb5_m76sgZ0Pu37mtNz3OxyfYDIbXuhGMBxNiU_qZ4/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxfVJCHHkpipN2N5XbJWSgiVi5_5o3zfXKy_8ke8jQwhWoDilyGgKdLTWzwdShYMc7aXEavtZX9Th1r4L66n4CNZng4xm0JxpEHb5_m76sgZ0Pu37mtNz3OxyfYDIbXuhGMBxNiU_qZ4/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I wasn't too put off by 'tourist street' until costumed children appeared to perform short acrobatic feats before requesting money.<br />
I hurried on through.<br />
<br />
It wasn't until I was on the train to my next destination that I realised I'd missed something. Scanning through the Lonely Planet to read some history that I might have missed due to my guide speaking Chinese, I was confused by not being able to find the write up of this temple. Digging out my ticket confirmed that it was Puning Temple, but the Lonely Planet guide said that Puning Temple contained the world's largest wooden sculpture! Where the hell was that then!? How could I have missed it!? I raced through the pictures on my camera in disbelief.<br />
Ah. That's where it was!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ycDxHwgQY2-sXQ6h7Sp-V6eeSIWoxbq_BvIbh1GpoyB7VilQzn-yhgaMklVZ7xGFx8ZJoRfvoIm6tzjxx4jSb2SgAOhRkUbrklCQxBGj2qcXgzhZ5n3Co_SVbForrTb3Ca2VXC90TOs/s1600/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ycDxHwgQY2-sXQ6h7Sp-V6eeSIWoxbq_BvIbh1GpoyB7VilQzn-yhgaMklVZ7xGFx8ZJoRfvoIm6tzjxx4jSb2SgAOhRkUbrklCQxBGj2qcXgzhZ5n3Co_SVbForrTb3Ca2VXC90TOs/s400/blog0178_CantSeeTheWoodForTheMusicians_08.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Distracted by the musicians, tourists milling in the doorways, and a little pressed for time, I'd elected not to jostle for a view inside.<br />
That'll learn me! Always know what you're going to see!<br />
Ah well. Maybe I'll see it next time I'm in town! :PMartin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-81989929405401889742011-04-06T09:33:00.000+01:002011-04-06T09:33:34.331+01:00Hill Temple2009 09 15 – Day 81 – Chengde<br />
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Having been only semi-conscious during <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/03/early-bird-catches-tour.html">my arrival and tour negotiation</a>, I was aware that I was joining a Chinese language tour, but not entirely sure what the itinerary was. First up was a hill temple I'd never heard of. Not an ideal start, but the day was young and, as I wasn't going to understand any of the information dispensed by our guide, I was free to wander at my own pace.<br />
The courtyard of the temple provided good views over Chengde in the valley below,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZBMfG0xWWuVF1QsGzuRFQSkpr_cT9xvgnXsX_DtyoGbXjJdQqHcNXW576lZVqghbJTibsK4dzAGqIXWwfQdELfMvzqhl3VCqfb5yvUt2icfxjeiN5jDq2aa1ROhg59XS0fnwg-C5L18/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZBMfG0xWWuVF1QsGzuRFQSkpr_cT9xvgnXsX_DtyoGbXjJdQqHcNXW576lZVqghbJTibsK4dzAGqIXWwfQdELfMvzqhl3VCqfb5yvUt2icfxjeiN5jDq2aa1ROhg59XS0fnwg-C5L18/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>and an inevitable construction site:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisK2dbYm1pPkt6r2ztt7gDoVdZvue9N5tw_wQm4WczX_bXjHR79kcOktwXQlvVP2IR8Sz4QIyysLtptdW9AuEEqn8Os1S5LPfMgZN3zglBzswbBORrDymjb3DXhpsQMJZtheiYSWbMeds/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisK2dbYm1pPkt6r2ztt7gDoVdZvue9N5tw_wQm4WczX_bXjHR79kcOktwXQlvVP2IR8Sz4QIyysLtptdW9AuEEqn8Os1S5LPfMgZN3zglBzswbBORrDymjb3DXhpsQMJZtheiYSWbMeds/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhyphenhyphenCrB_r9MyDIB_Gh8enY4w1urN90A6Lk6OwjNezWpckdL_7houRc2_foJdI6aCtsGWV_S6c2_q3c53AkPGDH83ZjAWpPP0SzpeWEdwVL84AOVUQvwrl_E2Ft4hIJteU4vd9pOAQpXFw/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhyphenhyphenCrB_r9MyDIB_Gh8enY4w1urN90A6Lk6OwjNezWpckdL_7houRc2_foJdI6aCtsGWV_S6c2_q3c53AkPGDH83ZjAWpPP0SzpeWEdwVL84AOVUQvwrl_E2Ft4hIJteU4vd9pOAQpXFw/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>It wasn't obvious whether this sculpture quarry was still operational.<br />
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The temple buildings themselves weren't particularly noteworthy, but I was taken by some of the art :<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifk2UolXRFKzKa8knR4bigMYsfG9zqrUIjxUHVqS3hb-sOpBjkfZLFcRWq_kd_Uh6XInYHsZIz79pICCEiZ9lSEVsjxD5EoWpeb9oQ48wqRUKAw0h-D183KAzIQYOyRV9GPbmW_IoB2lA/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifk2UolXRFKzKa8knR4bigMYsfG9zqrUIjxUHVqS3hb-sOpBjkfZLFcRWq_kd_Uh6XInYHsZIz79pICCEiZ9lSEVsjxD5EoWpeb9oQ48wqRUKAw0h-D183KAzIQYOyRV9GPbmW_IoB2lA/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkToiiB17hKlUMGsJGeCzfSVvFcRQMb1S3VB6Z8FHhBqHQDCCazMHsfHKdNqKiBiPzoNp-WLgG4_TqSDWPUmFOVD4UedZiYnGyriI_3WC2qebZltUVYVwOsWYnc-IlNtH98wkkei_jW0/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkToiiB17hKlUMGsJGeCzfSVvFcRQMb1S3VB6Z8FHhBqHQDCCazMHsfHKdNqKiBiPzoNp-WLgG4_TqSDWPUmFOVD4UedZiYnGyriI_3WC2qebZltUVYVwOsWYnc-IlNtH98wkkei_jW0/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQD6xFU8csQMq8esoCWLyU6tztcdA6u5wtsI3JUPOZi40GFdKZ-SeyrV2DsAoFivTYuWDZqRD-OGILl2Mz0AJ1UoCZGF_yt1SRh8qLVsH1koojfxoqIMC1m5q6LrtVi4mSz_jh5hDGGtk/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQD6xFU8csQMq8esoCWLyU6tztcdA6u5wtsI3JUPOZi40GFdKZ-SeyrV2DsAoFivTYuWDZqRD-OGILl2Mz0AJ1UoCZGF_yt1SRh8qLVsH1koojfxoqIMC1m5q6LrtVi4mSz_jh5hDGGtk/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRGKQvMw16k5aOS0gBIkEGsm8AE6u19yYPDbSWObnVNELaEPembt0_uCN034P3IWOR4ChNVTXF3HIeW052vSY3iDRx1O8hs_m-oFkLQ2QjPn_UXFNwAGUnoKbZ_zbOFqu5gaYCMLZIxI/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRGKQvMw16k5aOS0gBIkEGsm8AE6u19yYPDbSWObnVNELaEPembt0_uCN034P3IWOR4ChNVTXF3HIeW052vSY3iDRx1O8hs_m-oFkLQ2QjPn_UXFNwAGUnoKbZ_zbOFqu5gaYCMLZIxI/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxz7kUIlJsExR7g5y9Qleceuku_ODm2QCl3JtSMcWqO_8PBZwYUay05isP3yW8Jzcoa3fgrcQfozvsgq5-BrPoBZOqHJ6BFTQ1zFjRuV4kD7o0o-46Arh3eBnYWmjq8oKvrbHibm-falw/s1600/blog0177_HillTemple_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxz7kUIlJsExR7g5y9Qleceuku_ODm2QCl3JtSMcWqO_8PBZwYUay05isP3yW8Jzcoa3fgrcQfozvsgq5-BrPoBZOqHJ6BFTQ1zFjRuV4kD7o0o-46Arh3eBnYWmjq8oKvrbHibm-falw/s400/blog0177_HillTemple_08.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-89010596440432201242011-03-27T10:43:00.001+01:002011-03-27T10:50:32.678+01:00The Early Bird Catches the Tour2009 09 15 – Day 81 – Chengde<br />
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Arriving in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chengde">Chengde</a> at 04:30 or thereabouts, I expected a bit of a wait before I could find out about visiting the tourist sights. I was wrong. Riding the high-tide of arriving passengers, I was teased out of the flow like a tickled trout and, before I knew it, I had negotiated a tour deal and was sat in a minivan on the way to a hotel to dump my stuff, splash some water on my face, find some food and wait for the sun to rise!<br />
After freshening up, I had a bit of time to wander the chilly pre-dawn streets.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4m92bAEaOb7UxhXd7UR5BoUYGyBLyVHiAQc7NoMtTmQMN3cVSdteFJVKO3WomZmtIzx1PdTB6EfMpFiUC4Ds4pVVjQh_ucuw_9xx0u-5f6HwMIOtDCRQHt0F2MPqR_SKCygIHlpy50_M/s1600/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4m92bAEaOb7UxhXd7UR5BoUYGyBLyVHiAQc7NoMtTmQMN3cVSdteFJVKO3WomZmtIzx1PdTB6EfMpFiUC4Ds4pVVjQh_ucuw_9xx0u-5f6HwMIOtDCRQHt0F2MPqR_SKCygIHlpy50_M/s400/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVmbxWVzJpyH7V4r4cyuXxj1M6j8PGccKVUbJxK5NDB-BiZOFtewA3mip62dBXd_cq4FHk0svPLea-kgDBEwFiUb7UjyFPISgOOp29C3SkJYFg9qHorLGigictppW69FMZcNE5Py37QRY/s1600/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVmbxWVzJpyH7V4r4cyuXxj1M6j8PGccKVUbJxK5NDB-BiZOFtewA3mip62dBXd_cq4FHk0svPLea-kgDBEwFiUb7UjyFPISgOOp29C3SkJYFg9qHorLGigictppW69FMZcNE5Py37QRY/s400/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNYuDAMMvZu9U6df1IRlLLYmW5uFoBQDTnUw-uU4dIJDWMqt1quEQlLMnGuE7uPRvvZWoqIbAxz-FDjUJri0s0CcrvXGL6Rd2QJN03IjUSALA5S87AgsRxgNNuxiy4zYeD3Znf4b_lmQ/s1600/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNYuDAMMvZu9U6df1IRlLLYmW5uFoBQDTnUw-uU4dIJDWMqt1quEQlLMnGuE7uPRvvZWoqIbAxz-FDjUJri0s0CcrvXGL6Rd2QJN03IjUSALA5S87AgsRxgNNuxiy4zYeD3Znf4b_lmQ/s400/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>This square was virtually empty just 20 or 30 minutes earlier, but now was alive with people exercising, some individually, but mostly in groups. Aerobics, dancercise, tai chi and foot-badminton were the most common.<br />
<br />
And while some exercised their limbs, others exercised their songbirds<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2j76znzMBgDDOMDJT7IrFAWhE0iIgdFxeIkNhga-eJDJlN8lyDLZd7ueVXF6kkXv3wH9zIok2ZK_CrbmcfoceTMXq49yomkAizfe8TpsjeEGyG4OIqcp4mFnoX8-kIGKfa0hZywLTF7g/s1600/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2j76znzMBgDDOMDJT7IrFAWhE0iIgdFxeIkNhga-eJDJlN8lyDLZd7ueVXF6kkXv3wH9zIok2ZK_CrbmcfoceTMXq49yomkAizfe8TpsjeEGyG4OIqcp4mFnoX8-kIGKfa0hZywLTF7g/s400/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlQPK5A0G24J9pPmZOz43jfIQGOMWMVog00A86hFeqkIOs9JG-aBEFa-2m6LxGSdMJ8U7wNNJeXvMWtKf3YuNJwMMbcLx1LxwT1ysKhAdZmXc6CGsSO763mB6vNCzuvqKP0oJANv__7E/s1600/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlQPK5A0G24J9pPmZOz43jfIQGOMWMVog00A86hFeqkIOs9JG-aBEFa-2m6LxGSdMJ8U7wNNJeXvMWtKf3YuNJwMMbcLx1LxwT1ysKhAdZmXc6CGsSO763mB6vNCzuvqKP0oJANv__7E/s400/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVopnjHZzfsm9kPwh1-eYUeFDHQr9TTyNBfNWL8uenma-Nrc3-GOzduTVaawStpvm45RbJB6k5XtHTvwhLcXUa7_nwG95Ax34HVeH0CiUPYPnNwX432S9OQcDU4-VA6DfHbk0lM6DkYCI/s1600/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVopnjHZzfsm9kPwh1-eYUeFDHQr9TTyNBfNWL8uenma-Nrc3-GOzduTVaawStpvm45RbJB6k5XtHTvwhLcXUa7_nwG95Ax34HVeH0CiUPYPnNwX432S9OQcDU4-VA6DfHbk0lM6DkYCI/s400/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_06.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
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<br />
Now most of the city was awake I could get breakfast:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3fALvVfNE4pvERpmu_JgFjBzVoyUuMG243i1SU-8nLZWYSUtQ03umheHnn6fVYY_yH1XFFbEcY9E9igXGObB1Usdq9rcTuWrw3y2rJq08Tee06NqC0LLhkoZJspHPCbK-DKOVk20WhUk/s1600/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3fALvVfNE4pvERpmu_JgFjBzVoyUuMG243i1SU-8nLZWYSUtQ03umheHnn6fVYY_yH1XFFbEcY9E9igXGObB1Usdq9rcTuWrw3y2rJq08Tee06NqC0LLhkoZJspHPCbK-DKOVk20WhUk/s400/blog0176_TheEarlyBirdCatchesTheTour_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>On my morning stroll, I'd seen one of the reasons American fast food chains like McDonalds and KFC are making headway into the Chinese market – because, at certain times of the day, they're the only places open!<br />
I'm glad I held out for a genuine Chinese breakfast.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-84413988145788186702011-03-27T10:27:00.001+01:002011-03-27T10:32:44.834+01:00Travelling Lessons Learned2009 09 14/15 – Days 80/81 – Shanhaiguan to Chengde<br />
<br />
Doing things takes time. Of course I knew that, but how much time? Depends on the things doesn't it? And whether you've done it before, and whether you're dependent on others, and how dependable they are, and how reliable your information is etc etc. All pretty obvious stuff. In hindsight. Knowing how much time to allow is something that comes with experience. Which is exactly what I got as I made my way from Shanhaiguan to Chengde.<br />
<br />
With a 5pm last bus departure on the horizon, and disappointed with <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/03/i-see-no-sea.html">smog shrouded visibility on my morning walk</a>, and swayed by the underwhelming Lonely Planet write up of the actual sight of the Great Wall entering the sea, I opted to abandon an afternoon visit, despite it being the main reason I was in Shanhaiguan.<br />
I was keen to avoid a potentially panicky race for the last bus to Chengde because, to catch it, I first needed to get to the nearby city of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qinhuangdao">Qinhuangdao</a>, a local bus ride away. No problem when you're a local, but not so straight forward as a foreigner who can't speak, read or write! Lonely Planet was understanably short on detail for this minor tourist destination, but they did have this particular bus journey and after a fun half hour of bobbly wobbly bus ride, I was in Qinhuangdao.<br />
But where in Qinhuangdao? The final stop was a bit of a car park of local buses in an area of town with no recognisable buildings – no intercity bus station, no train station, no town hall or even post office. I was surrounded by non-descript concrete block apparments and offices.<br />
I joined a queue to a nearby concrete shed masquerading as a ticket office to enquire about the bus to Chengde. I didn't hold out any hope that it actually left from here, or that the people behind the counters spoke any English, but I didn't yet have an alternative plan of action. If my bus didn't leave from here, then where? And how to get there? Time was slipping away.<br />
A smiley local approached and applied his broken English as best he could. Conversation was a struggle, but I persevered, hoping he would help me find my bus. Victory was short lived. Once I had managed to make my travel plans understood, it was immediately clear that he thought there was no bus to Chengde! His advice was to go back to Beijing and out to Chengde by train, there are many. He proposed to drive me to the train station.<br />
I was sure he was right about the frequency of trains, but I wasn't sure that he really knew there was no bus. But I was running out of time and options, and the train station offered the possibility of other people who might know about the bus to Chengde. If that bus didn't exist I would be well placed for plan B. I decided to go with him, still alert to the potential of this being one big con on the short brisk walk to his car, which was 'not far' and 'over there'. The fact that his car was indeed not far and over there was encouraging. The fact, revealed shortly after we'd joined traffic, that he'd been drinking, was not. If I understood correctly, he'd been at a business lunch where they'd eaten and drunk a lot. No wonder he was so happy! The walk to the car, the first minutes of the drive and my experience with <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2010/05/ruslan.html">Ruslan</a>, encouraged me to not confuse his coordination with my concerns of his driving under the influence. Fortunately the drive was short.<br />
At the train station, my merry local found a station official to share a laugh with over the idea of a bus to Chengde, before jumping queues to help me buy a ticket for the next train to Beijing. <br />
Returning to Beijing was frustrating and disappointing. I had been trying to not retrace my route and though this wasn't a major problem, travelling two sides of a triangle instead of one would significantly delay my arrival in Chengde. A delay that also wouldn't be a big problem if I hadn't already bought my onward ticket. But I had, before I left Beijing.<br />
It now looked like I'd have to skip sightseeing in Chengde as most of the day I'd allocated for it would be spent arriving and departing. This prospect was particularly frustrating because I had squeezed the less interesting Shanhaiguan into my schedule on the back of the mythical 5pm bus to Chengde.<br />
I had come <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2010/06/chance-encounter-and-tough-decision.html">unstuck in Khazakstan</a>, with future fixtures restricting my in-the-moment flexibility, due to a fixed schedule from Moscow to Beijing. But I'd defined that before I left the UK, this current setback was one of my own making and I had to learn my lesson!<br />
I used the five hour train ride back to Beijing to critically revisit my speculative and sketchy schedule for China. It was a pencil plan of possibilities. Too many possibilities! I chopped away at the edges to create more room manoeuvre – off came a number of possibles in the North East -chop- including a national park along the North Korean border -chop- off came a horse trek in Inner Mongolia -chop- there would be no time to return to the west of China -chop-chop-etc-chop-etc. <br />
Arriving late in Beijing, I had accepted my setback, learned my lesson and felt better having created a more realistic, achievable, and full yet flexible plan for China. I had resigned myself to only passing through Chengde, rather than touring, as I went to buy my train ticket for the next day.<br />
Chengde is about five hours by train from Beijing so, given that it was about 22:00, I was surprised to find that the next train wasn't early the next morning, but at 23:15! A brief rush of panicky uncertainty, at the prospect of a sleepless night in a seat, failed to defeat the surge of excitement at the prospect of touring Chengde after all and the lure of a cheap ticket and night. Before I knew it I was scurrying along a platform and into a carriage. Hesitating in the face of possible Chinese protocol over unreserved seating, I was happy to be rescued, <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2010/04/aralsk-tashkent-train.html">not for the first time</a>, by local teenage girls, who invited me to join them. That they were returning home to Chengde was about the extent of possible conversation and soon enough, they had heads on arms on table and fell fast asleep. An activity most passengers seemed engaged in:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinH3cYCFEV5HuymNTuABI4dTG0_0acp4FdwvdIQ14GWLL5DJSaJQtRuJmVTRagNjCeQDCBIXCAnwfQwz4fZUBvx3PUAHch75wZFJmAMOl3i1QR0sgd5UaGlY9Q87NArPvfyAlFuPr-SZ0/s1600/blog0175_TravellingLessonsLearned_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinH3cYCFEV5HuymNTuABI4dTG0_0acp4FdwvdIQ14GWLL5DJSaJQtRuJmVTRagNjCeQDCBIXCAnwfQwz4fZUBvx3PUAHch75wZFJmAMOl3i1QR0sgd5UaGlY9Q87NArPvfyAlFuPr-SZ0/s400/blog0175_TravellingLessonsLearned_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>except me!<br />
I struggle to sleep sat upright at the best of times, but a hard seat, noisy train, uncertain security situation and unfamiliar surroundings were never going to let my exhaustion get the better of my consciousness.<br />
I tried to rest my eyes as best I could.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-82071358259559718742011-03-27T09:33:00.001+01:002011-03-27T09:34:55.297+01:00Shanhaiguan Signs2009 09 13/14 – Days 80 – Shanhaiguan<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfB0QeZyrLbl3JWORUUa9THU-_-Unl4uekxsaIOzIWyvPb45FLJi9y1XRTfQUvydg-3En-AcDtpKZZkMI4Y6fdETC95zqnWpKwaAL8HAs5McZFxbsidQdB5qzebjddxgfP-D26RBusPhs/s1600/blog0174_ShanhaiguanSigns_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfB0QeZyrLbl3JWORUUa9THU-_-Unl4uekxsaIOzIWyvPb45FLJi9y1XRTfQUvydg-3En-AcDtpKZZkMI4Y6fdETC95zqnWpKwaAL8HAs5McZFxbsidQdB5qzebjddxgfP-D26RBusPhs/s400/blog0174_ShanhaiguanSigns_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Little grass is having rest,please don't disturb them <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC05tr34uPosKColFd-7w-V7OshQ50jmdkiIFTMHz93wgW9IQQanewqqjS2wgT68AVtu_GbBH7RNRp-bJWZMUUgowC94-cLHroltkjj0l8BFsrxn3nWAwh_LKgKFmnyN2tLl6dD9iby1s/s1600/blog0174_ShanhaiguanSigns_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC05tr34uPosKColFd-7w-V7OshQ50jmdkiIFTMHz93wgW9IQQanewqqjS2wgT68AVtu_GbBH7RNRp-bJWZMUUgowC94-cLHroltkjj0l8BFsrxn3nWAwh_LKgKFmnyN2tLl6dD9iby1s/s400/blog0174_ShanhaiguanSigns_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The fish are enjoying themselves; please don't disturb them.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjconXOWyyjxgdzq1DyC3iVC2jW9LwEVDYNKdwf3r45_ryInLSrWgC-e41WJT9l96ieEo6Ol7Zt4ARLCQVQCGti1yeAhPNoMbR5IkSv02PvJjJxEm35or7qLx6QeRcVHZ6qcmjrbrjvprs/s1600/blog0174_ShanhaiguanSigns_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjconXOWyyjxgdzq1DyC3iVC2jW9LwEVDYNKdwf3r45_ryInLSrWgC-e41WJT9l96ieEo6Ol7Zt4ARLCQVQCGti1yeAhPNoMbR5IkSv02PvJjJxEm35or7qLx6QeRcVHZ6qcmjrbrjvprs/s400/blog0174_ShanhaiguanSigns_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Inspired by the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_Don%27t_Like_Mondays">Boomtown Rats</a>?Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-13666386750612963912011-03-21T00:14:00.002+00:002011-03-21T00:17:38.150+00:00Around Shanhaiguan2009 09 14 – Day 80 – Shanhaiguan<br />
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Like Qianmen in Beijing, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanhaiguan">Shanhaiguan</a> is part of the '<a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/01/out-with-old-in-with-new-old.html">new old</a>' China.<br />
The new arched entrance to the old tourist attraction The First Pass Under Heaven:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX0ZTpjClRoebKcTs0IeTgvcLsNoBsWfttldyVWKVfPrLtwNaizoPt9rWhZ07rjLAw_P4IXwChzsLngtf2W2yKw5JuhyCnRXxcu98D1znkaWYR21-m8ADdsWoWcAh70EMLKnhp5wtEJPc/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX0ZTpjClRoebKcTs0IeTgvcLsNoBsWfttldyVWKVfPrLtwNaizoPt9rWhZ07rjLAw_P4IXwChzsLngtf2W2yKw5JuhyCnRXxcu98D1znkaWYR21-m8ADdsWoWcAh70EMLKnhp5wtEJPc/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The building to the left with the circular windows is part of the hotel I stayed in, which was very convenient.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2TPGPgCDOYthqjzChRa-lwavtMQ5EUT1UuGy_K6Gm0w-5Q8Y83ExqcrU7xYOlD5hnDvbw3GWmDZZ5v4DfmGdcRfDHxHaIKoNVBi5DTn5UTtnChKIuiQ_jIeLMEWdHFxLmItTSJHD_Fs/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2TPGPgCDOYthqjzChRa-lwavtMQ5EUT1UuGy_K6Gm0w-5Q8Y83ExqcrU7xYOlD5hnDvbw3GWmDZZ5v4DfmGdcRfDHxHaIKoNVBi5DTn5UTtnChKIuiQ_jIeLMEWdHFxLmItTSJHD_Fs/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>New flat surfaces and sharp edges abound in the old town. Perhaps everything's new?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiujR31RGX1eB5mwdvIeW8oadCsCsM5iqGlANR3ylSB8lvwTVY7_uBWI0rvy8gXJqXULlxssYX871PKVmX8ZcShWa3t4H3zRgiCfHjWiTFncQu_gt1orZbaB_A0RenfjtiqMUqyrrHZwLI/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiujR31RGX1eB5mwdvIeW8oadCsCsM5iqGlANR3ylSB8lvwTVY7_uBWI0rvy8gXJqXULlxssYX871PKVmX8ZcShWa3t4H3zRgiCfHjWiTFncQu_gt1orZbaB_A0RenfjtiqMUqyrrHZwLI/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Except this food stall. Delicious spicy eggy pancakes – a staple breakfast item for my time in Beijing, so I don't know why I didn't have a good picture of one earlier.<br />
<br />
The sun came out, collaborating with the smog to make my photo of The First Pass Under Heaven look like it's from the 1970s or something:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1dvvoXA3SBJY2pr7Rvlslwu3cTm-xtV2CDwt5N_4EEYLE3LYNlxVWyVmj0qZWoPlSJ19SwLH3stmftoFCK_VIrv4N_cAHOIWApa93pahbKgb79N8vETayjYEYxoi7UtB2qn8aRumKAI/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1dvvoXA3SBJY2pr7Rvlslwu3cTm-xtV2CDwt5N_4EEYLE3LYNlxVWyVmj0qZWoPlSJ19SwLH3stmftoFCK_VIrv4N_cAHOIWApa93pahbKgb79N8vETayjYEYxoi7UtB2qn8aRumKAI/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Within the tourist zone around and beyond the gate are a variety of gentle entertainments:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1t2ArEi20WIks_04QnGUOL5GdjHRVb0XC8qQaGukXltd0pchYkkFqKmpF4H521NC8n4jE4JxRotpv1SHoV6_2QZ0ZOr4dtrRXEiSn4igOPgtUMmU1PVSKjdb54qUwaohm1gFQ4CgeFA/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1t2ArEi20WIks_04QnGUOL5GdjHRVb0XC8qQaGukXltd0pchYkkFqKmpF4H521NC8n4jE4JxRotpv1SHoV6_2QZ0ZOr4dtrRXEiSn4igOPgtUMmU1PVSKjdb54qUwaohm1gFQ4CgeFA/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>archery with arrows of dubious quality – they each lacked at least one <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fletching">fletching</a>; drumming on massive drums of impressive sound and rebound; wide wall walking:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidkQPmv7KvwoubeZljwm7LwsKiWh72Tu_Oc3BaLO6AHPScli58mmeUJ4jooVNpYGCdcNhMXfPPr2Ujq0J7QVnCxF5Q9YFMiOUzJPb28bSegqLhB_8I7p4bmloCl1XbwBwJF4hWmeM_fng/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidkQPmv7KvwoubeZljwm7LwsKiWh72Tu_Oc3BaLO6AHPScli58mmeUJ4jooVNpYGCdcNhMXfPPr2Ujq0J7QVnCxF5Q9YFMiOUzJPb28bSegqLhB_8I7p4bmloCl1XbwBwJF4hWmeM_fng/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>bashed biscuit buying<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6W9DnWHzS5AmWmp5jygngPRrI0z3K_eZ_jzS9sjUx0k-jBC8Uh7tUXUUHBbUlLTosqHO0f-Viru4C4o2PUmhahBO8aR3-2Dr48HKgj47-yOrE1ytqxY4r5GpgqhrUWvYBqoeCanJ3aE/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6W9DnWHzS5AmWmp5jygngPRrI0z3K_eZ_jzS9sjUx0k-jBC8Uh7tUXUUHBbUlLTosqHO0f-Viru4C4o2PUmhahBO8aR3-2Dr48HKgj47-yOrE1ytqxY4r5GpgqhrUWvYBqoeCanJ3aE/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>(and eating! Mostly almond and honey I think. Mmm!)<br />
In fact there was plenty of opportunity to buy a variety of tourist tat, but I declined the enthusiastic stall holders' advances.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZUpyW_e1JpW8P5SJf7wVEUZqoCxubMfg9IK1tRt1_-mp7KYlj5-ZPpxDTzltuPHl-wtSOVpD-skyLaD97pgJ_XaFW12JcNFM7ecduNQNCKtAs-zfuiYhytPRBHlLvfBeBs-Z2e0jl7qo/s1600/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZUpyW_e1JpW8P5SJf7wVEUZqoCxubMfg9IK1tRt1_-mp7KYlj5-ZPpxDTzltuPHl-wtSOVpD-skyLaD97pgJ_XaFW12JcNFM7ecduNQNCKtAs-zfuiYhytPRBHlLvfBeBs-Z2e0jl7qo/s400/blog0173_aroundShanhaiguan_08.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The rising ranks of tour groups were beginning to crowd my space. It was time to move on.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-85182885540099092272011-03-20T23:58:00.002+00:002011-03-21T00:00:21.571+00:00Culture Museum2009 09 14 – Day 80 – Shanhaiguan<br />
<br />
Although I wasn't particularly looking for it, the tourist shepherds of Shanhaiguan ensured I visited the small but enjoyable Culture Museum.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGMhoQIaH4v5LBKxAytGlhldTUglQb2dyw79XdH86W5lKYpIjGui7m1HaQQhx5cn9OV93-yb7Am3QpXlMc3bqGycNEIUPAdxrE5rp31d42jQAUkgDD3DtZa4m8LgrZdYHkm4sXJ6OASQ/s1600/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGMhoQIaH4v5LBKxAytGlhldTUglQb2dyw79XdH86W5lKYpIjGui7m1HaQQhx5cn9OV93-yb7Am3QpXlMc3bqGycNEIUPAdxrE5rp31d42jQAUkgDD3DtZa4m8LgrZdYHkm4sXJ6OASQ/s400/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>A pleasure to see some genuinely old artifacts in this 'renovated' town.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifnLZbXxwENOWanfiJ7oT48FwOwSxawp4Lv-_JIh3gotI1A9IkPGUypJXl7a5maOpvQvp7Wy2-u9tOD44JY9cIqx3KPgkFA_JeNXnyOTNPS4eOBG39sws9jyI1ElNOXzsoiMfO2-rp4Ww/s1600/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifnLZbXxwENOWanfiJ7oT48FwOwSxawp4Lv-_JIh3gotI1A9IkPGUypJXl7a5maOpvQvp7Wy2-u9tOD44JY9cIqx3KPgkFA_JeNXnyOTNPS4eOBG39sws9jyI1ElNOXzsoiMfO2-rp4Ww/s400/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>I really liked the look of these ornately carved raised beds, though I imagine I'd need a larger size.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCF10N72V92ny6mkWXrx9tXsYxEUPE1TBVK8fF8UpuaFoCaREyu7MpVuy-R1tStT2xApw0weJzk75OdSzfuWKfU6mzhzUZVYppludWAq67bLoaYpuxs08n9jhbsxh4Vuf1pMvVV3AzP_0/s1600/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCF10N72V92ny6mkWXrx9tXsYxEUPE1TBVK8fF8UpuaFoCaREyu7MpVuy-R1tStT2xApw0weJzk75OdSzfuWKfU6mzhzUZVYppludWAq67bLoaYpuxs08n9jhbsxh4Vuf1pMvVV3AzP_0/s400/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwROXDZuG1cLYUNUOSJ4fOGPCNhXgujwvI7B5oVfbXBv6P3RMvxuO3t0gXC7A1k_vESSXn2a1GrOVC_DNlSZYxyaXnmhOrB3S_u7pvLH6wBAx4XO7hIhcZRwH05Qcqxny5-zutz7Ci5M/s1600/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwROXDZuG1cLYUNUOSJ4fOGPCNhXgujwvI7B5oVfbXBv6P3RMvxuO3t0gXC7A1k_vESSXn2a1GrOVC_DNlSZYxyaXnmhOrB3S_u7pvLH6wBAx4XO7hIhcZRwH05Qcqxny5-zutz7Ci5M/s400/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgATAt2YnAXeaC0O6W4LkjppPY6y9DqA7O-mrQnvlwmXwQY4p9futzntuPmyrRDpWe6JTEkg3MmhiE_OX5OcRVYSNDIKIjKbBFeri7d2djvftr81MGtrJzlXY4cXPQ6iBoQ2UKyx7_-oGQ/s1600/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgATAt2YnAXeaC0O6W4LkjppPY6y9DqA7O-mrQnvlwmXwQY4p9futzntuPmyrRDpWe6JTEkg3MmhiE_OX5OcRVYSNDIKIjKbBFeri7d2djvftr81MGtrJzlXY4cXPQ6iBoQ2UKyx7_-oGQ/s400/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PiX1eb8Q_k8frliMBjvq6GaSlw_bhezufS269Wfubzw4ntoEmHt9-iXL7qJPNMAvYnwbvk2mE_Pk8OuBJxVzVAi8b8L93LYq-4jTFexvaSnirGKHV1oR8sBvlKsNJDQzvKk5WMuDfzE/s1600/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin: 0.7em 1em 0.3em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PiX1eb8Q_k8frliMBjvq6GaSlw_bhezufS269Wfubzw4ntoEmHt9-iXL7qJPNMAvYnwbvk2mE_Pk8OuBJxVzVAi8b8L93LYq-4jTFexvaSnirGKHV1oR8sBvlKsNJDQzvKk5WMuDfzE/s400/blog0172_ShanhaiguanCultureMuseum_06.JPG" width="260" /></a></div>I really like this sculpture.<br />
There's something ugly about the proportions and yet its simultaneously beautiful from its curves and flow of forms.<br />
Wonderful! :)Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-34932977562902692812011-03-20T23:43:00.001+00:002011-03-20T23:49:59.365+00:00I See No Sea2009 09 14 – Day 80 – Shanhaiguan<br />
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I rose early with ambition to climb the nearby section of The Great Wall, hopeful of a grand view over Shanhaiguan and out to sea, before checking out some of the touristy stuff in town and a visit to the shore before heading on to my next destination at the end of the afternoon. Seemed feasible.<br />
A short but wobbly ride in a three wheel red <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reliant_Robin">Reliant Robbin</a> wannabe got me to the Great Wall park before anyone else, including, it seemed, the park staff! At first, I was being told by my driver and others hanging around outside, that it wasn't open yet and I couldn't enter, but the gates were wide open and my persistence eventually revealed that actually it was just the chairlift that wasn't operational yet and if I was crazy enough to walk up, then of course I could enter! Which I did. At that point, of course some staff did materialise from round some corner or other to make sure I paid my entrance fee.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnuF7UuGS5FFcd2rioPh4a1pqB1TPQN_uFS16id6568D7iENgVMI7b3wUfrv0ptPj0a3ykPkAorGxIcwA2XadI33z6itaY6kIp9RtGfEdLpeRGF7f-MII2eGBL572gzs2jh8p4n2rkzs/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnuF7UuGS5FFcd2rioPh4a1pqB1TPQN_uFS16id6568D7iENgVMI7b3wUfrv0ptPj0a3ykPkAorGxIcwA2XadI33z6itaY6kIp9RtGfEdLpeRGF7f-MII2eGBL572gzs2jh8p4n2rkzs/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Didn't look too bad a climb.<br />
Before I knew it I had my own personal Great Wall climbing coach:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2H2TrvGQ_Elu_ve15tX9MlEl2OfMBNNgue-nqJ62GfKCckEF-vBvzaCgakJWw8GY0rhgMS9phM4bjGH1QDQ6H08Kf-0PoXJk41upYOzTOSqu_R6AC_CK41nQmxcj5lyQczTdCPLRkSM/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2H2TrvGQ_Elu_ve15tX9MlEl2OfMBNNgue-nqJ62GfKCckEF-vBvzaCgakJWw8GY0rhgMS9phM4bjGH1QDQ6H08Kf-0PoXJk41upYOzTOSqu_R6AC_CK41nQmxcj5lyQczTdCPLRkSM/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Waddling up to my side and then bouncing on ahead, then pausing to grin back at me – come on Martin! It's enthusiasm was infectious. I'm not quite sure how it managed to bound up stairs twice the height of it's legs, but it was inspirational!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90gGMz53lsRxsN9CQEhTSDMwOTi1etZm3nWa545TQqxGHqluMFvYDO5dtecRbigwmwh966pMOjwheZuxxdkcO6yDVCs4tjh8BBSYGSw5EIrVLnE4GfW4nsvysvBKfpqDepuh3ahDMEMQ/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90gGMz53lsRxsN9CQEhTSDMwOTi1etZm3nWa545TQqxGHqluMFvYDO5dtecRbigwmwh966pMOjwheZuxxdkcO6yDVCs4tjh8BBSYGSw5EIrVLnE4GfW4nsvysvBKfpqDepuh3ahDMEMQ/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
As the climb got progressively steeper I started to worry for my little chum, who now needed more regular breaks, lungs clearly working overtime, visibly heaving. But the panting pooch would not give it up... Until the onward path was a ladder into a tower:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlebSppft-VK_J178Jet9_znQfC8Fz6vx2zZVBavnoppLB1LSRKj_OL6ByM8iw57bamxvXWwyhCRNUfyXPrXKGEwwAZKfP4RFRkn1cO-oiZ43adzMSHZAy-TDvoFfU3P2DOIf3A8_wZE/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlebSppft-VK_J178Jet9_znQfC8Fz6vx2zZVBavnoppLB1LSRKj_OL6ByM8iw57bamxvXWwyhCRNUfyXPrXKGEwwAZKfP4RFRkn1cO-oiZ43adzMSHZAy-TDvoFfU3P2DOIf3A8_wZE/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Or so I thought! Down the other side of the tower and re-joining the wall, there was pooch, waiting for me! Clearly the little bounder had been this way before. <br />
<br />
Entering the wooded crest of the hill I began to encounter beasties:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMqk7KSD4_GK9uHrshJFWaFwsA7SuVd82T1-1BWPr8TuKv7IkBnFjfRgZeKzdjEMK-Apam_BLFekJwGJjEXbNEW06rnF1Xo9261RdqZoJveqqr7A9n4C32L6uZ68Ybc_3roTH_9Hefgs/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMqk7KSD4_GK9uHrshJFWaFwsA7SuVd82T1-1BWPr8TuKv7IkBnFjfRgZeKzdjEMK-Apam_BLFekJwGJjEXbNEW06rnF1Xo9261RdqZoJveqqr7A9n4C32L6uZ68Ybc_3roTH_9Hefgs/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_05.JPG" width="297" /></a></div>Spiders with leg spans of about 15cm, and possibly the hairiest caterpillar ever:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw-uZu_D605_1DNNX9gSirIEg9wW_-84mJj9E0-322JhhKs84MXRXZo8RBotDM2exKzk-MUX9i_O5KseazOHU27SIyuzbJ6nB5eSnxOKEsekvKU4p1yWVMQwVgob1xdtVarqFsLB1JSo4/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw-uZu_D605_1DNNX9gSirIEg9wW_-84mJj9E0-322JhhKs84MXRXZo8RBotDM2exKzk-MUX9i_O5KseazOHU27SIyuzbJ6nB5eSnxOKEsekvKU4p1yWVMQwVgob1xdtVarqFsLB1JSo4/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Good thing the temple at the peak had some guardians:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDeqE2lIu7HL5YpawSxgoe82jUZqDzq26Vfp4DQ-xjAyFd-2M3AW6i5zDe_ClZUWzpZE7rG8BT3Cgb_d-p0UjVIcjX0yRRfTgacHMsAFMi7BIbp2i5QfSVmRwlnuseQBDIjh1hxeROio/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDeqE2lIu7HL5YpawSxgoe82jUZqDzq26Vfp4DQ-xjAyFd-2M3AW6i5zDe_ClZUWzpZE7rG8BT3Cgb_d-p0UjVIcjX0yRRfTgacHMsAFMi7BIbp2i5QfSVmRwlnuseQBDIjh1hxeROio/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoN02kC50hr-fbeXIPR73oHCAApqzeNH0OsZF8d_50hkAHYHsQFBRAgRWqwzCkCUgjlyOuBGOHQc_YjgMIj0Lks4uAcUarDSCn531T3ZsLkr4yrum1CZ9_trTebLLtK4lx3OLsQOP5gSo/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoN02kC50hr-fbeXIPR73oHCAApqzeNH0OsZF8d_50hkAHYHsQFBRAgRWqwzCkCUgjlyOuBGOHQc_YjgMIj0Lks4uAcUarDSCn531T3ZsLkr4yrum1CZ9_trTebLLtK4lx3OLsQOP5gSo/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_08.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Over the other side, the scenery was quite different and the sun began to power its way through the smog, giving me hope of a fine view:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYugoSOYEXG8z3BF1q7wx97FELESL-qx6J7W70KJVmtQW6X91ydqnvx6KMo0ctEV5SsF8OVpQdMnaAvvYsy27YNIQkE9oCBvIfrxrwYAbQQPYE7EOngZJnMF0WrNBaN3V7Ogdk4J7hQOs/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_09.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYugoSOYEXG8z3BF1q7wx97FELESL-qx6J7W70KJVmtQW6X91ydqnvx6KMo0ctEV5SsF8OVpQdMnaAvvYsy27YNIQkE9oCBvIfrxrwYAbQQPYE7EOngZJnMF0WrNBaN3V7Ogdk4J7hQOs/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_09.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
But time wore on and sun and smog seemed to reach a stalemate and I had to return to the town if I wanted to fit everything in.<br />
By the time I was most of the way down, the smog had won and, though I had a reasonable view of the plain between mountains and sea that Shanhaiguan protected, I would not have the view to the sea that I'd hoped for.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XKo9yQ6-VyuG4BbxjYJ9gM9PvzdEvW4UBe8_WLORBBkvongvToQmj4hbG3Q83BpNpFzDTyii5h4n8LXHS-KCjGMWOSWlsdD8LZiKEZxkaJF5msrUnTb89w1t6_35cA_iETyM7blS3AM/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XKo9yQ6-VyuG4BbxjYJ9gM9PvzdEvW4UBe8_WLORBBkvongvToQmj4hbG3Q83BpNpFzDTyii5h4n8LXHS-KCjGMWOSWlsdD8LZiKEZxkaJF5msrUnTb89w1t6_35cA_iETyM7blS3AM/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_10.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
But a wedding or two is not a bad substitute!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQXDtgl7lTHWEN_LYP3xE_gpxSD82d0_KjBYtLzawiv71bYYOZuYqtNkU2zvvxDe40QSaS3909TGVu6RM-gZjESACS5_2XHYVRsPqZXIsjzNccdvXh3RdUkCCTe_gTmB0JP2HUOWXyqM/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQXDtgl7lTHWEN_LYP3xE_gpxSD82d0_KjBYtLzawiv71bYYOZuYqtNkU2zvvxDe40QSaS3909TGVu6RM-gZjESACS5_2XHYVRsPqZXIsjzNccdvXh3RdUkCCTe_gTmB0JP2HUOWXyqM/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_11.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>One of the two couples enjoying a photoshoot with the greatest of walls on their special day.<br />
<br />
Back in town, visiting the First Pass Under Heaven, I got a consolation prize:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vGdm1d9sG_mCblnAUEjEgvQJa-_uaNWgIEQRk7f1mVmyg8JbSd_jtfRryich2dXOoRh2Zc2JNumd58PlHQ6hO4KajU5PFJ9ZsbWVX3YwgwMaDk8CFaZ6MYVThdhXk_wccOfpHjRiJEk/s1600/blog0171_IseeNoSea_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vGdm1d9sG_mCblnAUEjEgvQJa-_uaNWgIEQRk7f1mVmyg8JbSd_jtfRryich2dXOoRh2Zc2JNumd58PlHQ6hO4KajU5PFJ9ZsbWVX3YwgwMaDk8CFaZ6MYVThdhXk_wccOfpHjRiJEk/s400/blog0171_IseeNoSea_12.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>At last! A view of the sea!<br />
Ok, not quite what I'd hoped for, but a fine artistic depiction of the strategic significance of Shanhaiguan and its position between mountains and sea.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-35363501638339197752011-02-11T17:32:00.000+00:002011-02-11T17:32:01.310+00:00Shanhaiguan Nightlife2009 09 13 – Day 79 – Shanhaiguan<br />
<br />
First stop after Beijing – <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanhaiguan">Shanhaiguan</a> – a heavily 'restored' old town to the east of Beijing, occupying a strategic location between the mountains and the sea and well known for being the only place The Great Wall meets the sea. <br />
<br />
Having arrived at the end of the afternoon, I'd barely had sufficient time to find a place to stay and settle in before darkness fell.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIQim49JytsoDJ_e5QnKddtVp9-Oz6EKKFNVR8IY-nevIiCZN3BNs6jc5KHyOqOfgXhjaZJVkZM1i53RYvvbg3sEHStCjgohSxwILpwIUUwmqVAivH5ahIlTgN9g2RMAwv3ezHd_TWHw/s1600/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIQim49JytsoDJ_e5QnKddtVp9-Oz6EKKFNVR8IY-nevIiCZN3BNs6jc5KHyOqOfgXhjaZJVkZM1i53RYvvbg3sEHStCjgohSxwILpwIUUwmqVAivH5ahIlTgN9g2RMAwv3ezHd_TWHw/s400/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>And so out I strode into the warm summer night in search of dinner<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGnN6gBXs6p5QY15yGgv8myT2ZdFVhep-LA8hUjYO2y7Q0OksiZEKhOGhJIT-zNbrs92nzV8cbhYyEeIxWyELOaMLy3B8ns4y0Sc2Xsu3E_Mk8HRaQ8I6F7KT4RYqCtzK2dAgT3CwxOK4/s1600/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGnN6gBXs6p5QY15yGgv8myT2ZdFVhep-LA8hUjYO2y7Q0OksiZEKhOGhJIT-zNbrs92nzV8cbhYyEeIxWyELOaMLy3B8ns4y0Sc2Xsu3E_Mk8HRaQ8I6F7KT4RYqCtzK2dAgT3CwxOK4/s400/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The spiders crafting impressive webs on their lampposts were easily large enough that a few could make substantial and possibly nutritious dinner... but no way was I tempted to try!<br />
<br />
There were very few people out and about, but those that were still managed to obstruct my photography:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmFcoSvJK4LRKKcVwM1rDakzeTu08VnHKawUCl97rKmaIe61Cx2yh6gI_rBypa76Ls9YFQLHhvkJLeEnXR7RznalDnpBsAK5LirNB8egfqV97Fpq6gAZLTQa9kVkUQnl0F2Ch-Oktue8/s1600/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmFcoSvJK4LRKKcVwM1rDakzeTu08VnHKawUCl97rKmaIe61Cx2yh6gI_rBypa76Ls9YFQLHhvkJLeEnXR7RznalDnpBsAK5LirNB8egfqV97Fpq6gAZLTQa9kVkUQnl0F2Ch-Oktue8/s400/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>having said that, I think the silhouettes add to this photo. I believe the man is airing his crickets – which gave the street a lovely gently musical ambiance.<br />
<br />
Eventually, having left the old town, I found a streetside barbecue. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QlsTu_SjuKb_THJGJFuIlqwExW78YBDNr3shvV_V2qIo1LPn9fPAf3IJh1MkDrlIkZ6EQz9pRMFp9xKHQImLjFsbgdlUKWUCAhMZiHDmla9u8nOKU9XBEpXOm8hvMPpocVGxW-OZtQM/s1600/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QlsTu_SjuKb_THJGJFuIlqwExW78YBDNr3shvV_V2qIo1LPn9fPAf3IJh1MkDrlIkZ6EQz9pRMFp9xKHQImLjFsbgdlUKWUCAhMZiHDmla9u8nOKU9XBEpXOm8hvMPpocVGxW-OZtQM/s400/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_04.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>With the help of the smiley, friendly, if a little embarrassed, teen girls waiting the tables, and a good deal of pointing and not being fussy, I managed to have a fairly tasty dinner of fish, sausage, garlic bread and pepper. I'd innocently ordered what I thought was a bell pepper to add some veg to the meal, but in fact it was a massive chili pepper! It was one of those hot peppers where you know its hot after you've had some, but the true heat doesn't come through until two or three bites later... by which point it was far too late. Trying to keep my breathing normal, stem the sweat at the hairline, soothe my mouth with beer and not cry was tough for a moment or two, but I beat it... mostly... I did have hiccups for much of the rest of the evening!<br />
Walking off the chili-pepper before bed and exploring the town a little, I hadn't gone far before the sound of drumming danced out of the darkness and, like the flame beguiling a moth, drew me to its source.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOGYHt8ELmWgAJh8wO3aoAI_hQTCV_iYz_0TrChWRVZt8kUKjYfVx5HKoTpruH4mt6_YN5Qd3lPn2Xp-ZEMGy4qkkbboKCmBwPnC9nItqoFDFtZjOJHpWHAxozfWA4dd-HYAkC4nRZS0/s1600/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOGYHt8ELmWgAJh8wO3aoAI_hQTCV_iYz_0TrChWRVZt8kUKjYfVx5HKoTpruH4mt6_YN5Qd3lPn2Xp-ZEMGy4qkkbboKCmBwPnC9nItqoFDFtZjOJHpWHAxozfWA4dd-HYAkC4nRZS0/s400/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>A small troop were giving a bit of a streetside show and a rag-tag band of onlookers had gathered. It looked like some kind of amateur/hobby group thoroughly enjoying themselves. I watched from the sidelines for a good 15-20 minutes till they were done, enjoying the rhythm of the drums, the crashing of the symbols and the enthusiasm of the performers. One sprightly elderly gent with a twinkle in his eye, and doing a good job of looking like a Chinese drag-queen, spied me grinning from the sidelines on his way by and made at least a couple of attempts to rope me in! A negotiation that brought much to the amusement of the chubby teen who'd sidled to my side for a closer look at the sole foreigner present.<br />
Soon after the last drumbeat had ebbed out into the night, I beat a hasty retreat back through the old town to my bed.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9kWawxRT6BPV2cYxnEwoLNmndZoTN3vhevNiLVbR27bZzuwFsEsxWWCPUMfeZeDl2xG4O6zNtUg3AFfpjTHp42wW80zfO2nNh8Q3bqIYKWxRHZ13d6YQFFsQkfqUjtxRnuD9CQqr-GGo/s1600/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9kWawxRT6BPV2cYxnEwoLNmndZoTN3vhevNiLVbR27bZzuwFsEsxWWCPUMfeZeDl2xG4O6zNtUg3AFfpjTHp42wW80zfO2nNh8Q3bqIYKWxRHZ13d6YQFFsQkfqUjtxRnuD9CQqr-GGo/s400/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjddCAAnDFzBoRSC4KqBrdvMx3vU0sAj1cbCmKlGrxYTAGYmhWSomqfmN9kfK3yMd8IGWzfCszk6XcGGEUwoPOTc6H3X954QpYRn8N6aK24vb5RbEcPSex0oJgFKtqRfMoRhTOaS74Z4fg/s1600/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjddCAAnDFzBoRSC4KqBrdvMx3vU0sAj1cbCmKlGrxYTAGYmhWSomqfmN9kfK3yMd8IGWzfCszk6XcGGEUwoPOTc6H3X954QpYRn8N6aK24vb5RbEcPSex0oJgFKtqRfMoRhTOaS74Z4fg/s400/blog0170_shanhaiguanNightlife_07.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-78399416870120384632011-02-11T17:08:00.000+00:002011-02-11T17:08:56.342+00:00Leaving Beijing2009 09 13 – Day 79 – Beijing<br />
<br />
Having been in Beijing for four weeks and settled (despite my <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2011/01/hostel-hopping.html">hostel hopping</a>) into some kind of routine, with Chinese language and cooking classes, I found it surprisingly difficult to leave. I think a big part of it was the daunting task of trying to elucidate a plan for my next month or two of travel in China – there's so much to see and do!<br />
Where to start? This was difficult even though I'd cut the country in two in my <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2009/07/which-way-round.html">overall plan</a>.<br />
In the end I got close enough to formulating a plan, though far from complete, with the first few destinations and resolved to get on the road again. However, in my 'settled' state, I wasn't yet confident enough with my basic language skills to buy my own train tickets and so resorted to the relatively expensive luxury of the hostel travel desk.<br />
Having bought the tickets the day before departure, and as the station was barely three minutes walk from the hostel, I was relaxed about collecting them and left it until just over an hour before departure. As the girl was handing over the tickets, she froze.<br />
“These are for today.” she said.<br />
“Yep” I casually confirmed.<br />
She looked at me, looked at the tickets, looked at her watch and back at me.<br />
“You have to go.” She said in deadly serious English.<br />
“You're going to miss your train” said her face in international body language.<br />
Suitably panicked and starting to feel a little sick at the thought of missing my train, I raced around gathering my stuff from the storage room and legged it over to the station. Just like <a href="http://eyestothehorizon.blogspot.com/2010/08/my-first-chinese-rail-departure.html">my first Chinese rail departure</a>, the station was vast and had security checks at the entrance, but it didn't take long to get inside, find my departure hall and soon enough I was wondering what all the fuss was about as I waited for half an hour or so to depart on time, as expected.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfp2nnLTvfI75dd8M1jOMtIUKBFwyK2djYPQPzfDhUCJ4nyMg6T7lX4L5Bu5hAQV3M8W4PU0GbyXl11219fno8algDLzUXfYd5_NIbfkQiflDW9l0z8LkQpEEqYsozHmsTX-darG2OVl8/s1600/blog0169_leavingBeijing_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfp2nnLTvfI75dd8M1jOMtIUKBFwyK2djYPQPzfDhUCJ4nyMg6T7lX4L5Bu5hAQV3M8W4PU0GbyXl11219fno8algDLzUXfYd5_NIbfkQiflDW9l0z8LkQpEEqYsozHmsTX-darG2OVl8/s400/blog0169_leavingBeijing_01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-67432231552445195302011-02-11T16:55:00.001+00:002011-02-11T16:55:55.436+00:00Book Review – Concise Chinese-English Dictionary for Lovers2009 09 – Beijing<br />
<br />
I enjoyed <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Concise-Chinese-English-Dictionary-Lovers-Novel/dp/0385520298">A Concise Chinese-English Dictionary for Lovers</a>, for its engaging exploration of differences of culture, philosophy and thought through Z, a young Chinese girl, come to England for an education, and her romantic entanglement with an older English man. The book is written as Z speaks, beginning with the basic and broken language of a beginner, evolving as she adjusts to her new life and eventually becoming almost as fluent as a native speaker. Throughout there are interesting and amusing situations arising from the difficulties of translation, not only because meanings don't easily align, but also because the ways of thinking underpinning the languages have some important differences.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQjhXuYE2HzkH6Tr_eGk-rmif_CwYxvkvvw6d5UvKb3PrHUjfwFCm5ltc_Hdk6VaabxvsI0RxxhXhBLYR-slh7NqCC6a09F3dfJ24Wu9_XqySaDrfHwTDN2tETFIcDN-X1Xy1QdRxLlt0/s1600/blog0168_bookReview_AConciseChineseEnglishDictionaryForLovers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQjhXuYE2HzkH6Tr_eGk-rmif_CwYxvkvvw6d5UvKb3PrHUjfwFCm5ltc_Hdk6VaabxvsI0RxxhXhBLYR-slh7NqCC6a09F3dfJ24Wu9_XqySaDrfHwTDN2tETFIcDN-X1Xy1QdRxLlt0/s400/blog0168_bookReview_AConciseChineseEnglishDictionaryForLovers.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8685817408502036711.post-91696585883798146552011-01-31T22:26:00.003+00:002011-01-31T23:11:27.110+00:00The Great Wall2009 09 07 – Day 73 – 3 hrs bus north west of Beijing<br />
<br />
“<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Wall_of_China">The Great Wall of China</a>; a miracle of Chinese engineering, so big you can see it from anywhere in the world.“ - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Father_Ted">Father Ted</a> (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Are_You_Right_There,_Father_Ted%3F">"Are You Right There, Father Ted?"</a>).<br />
<br />
Thanks to Ben for tickling my brain with this particular piece of comedic genius. I laughed my way along the four hour walk that is the Jinshanling to Simatai section.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbHV9cHPQQSwO_7k5ZUDtTnaVw1k7luuP4oLKntO51s5tVt4HO1qXpjUsU57nmrTAsFJvUFAVwTP86x8N_wwg3lSRXdP30UAdAqFevHL50q46bOs6MGliM6-2CB1qxvHOllXISotzwYD4/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbHV9cHPQQSwO_7k5ZUDtTnaVw1k7luuP4oLKntO51s5tVt4HO1qXpjUsU57nmrTAsFJvUFAVwTP86x8N_wwg3lSRXdP30UAdAqFevHL50q46bOs6MGliM6-2CB1qxvHOllXISotzwYD4/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_01.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiVuDt8O2x7rIgPFIPIZjqrD-uVJvRIJxgMmSuOYkCsvlJbOSzj7PnQFA5fTbY4J42exejGXxLx-oZ0CQ_pbHGX34EN8Wd1LFpDbp791IlqyewLMNEtUgSRZlSeHEAgGjzvWASeLPmds/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiVuDt8O2x7rIgPFIPIZjqrD-uVJvRIJxgMmSuOYkCsvlJbOSzj7PnQFA5fTbY4J42exejGXxLx-oZ0CQ_pbHGX34EN8Wd1LFpDbp791IlqyewLMNEtUgSRZlSeHEAgGjzvWASeLPmds/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>For those who'd like to see that I was actually there and placate the enthusiastic middle-aged local Chinese lady who'd decided we were walking buddies. A whole group of them joined us tourists at the point we got on the wall – the men-folk were apparently working the fields. My 'guide' entertained me with her broken English banter for an hour or so, before persuading me to buy a few of her goods. Normally I would have avoided buying, but she'd been so enthusiastic, cheery and not pushy, that I wanted to acknowledge her good attitude as much as anything.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5vmsSXCwlaNyWevI92lLoW7IutNCqQKmegwWXOSOor_xmioVMxnhBAz2OBcHZuXhosZV50GYe5OOMmgfYCiSQha0MwwnO8G3YnhekMhjpvX4X80uPV6gVv_lahN362f1A4f4cGk4jBE/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5vmsSXCwlaNyWevI92lLoW7IutNCqQKmegwWXOSOor_xmioVMxnhBAz2OBcHZuXhosZV50GYe5OOMmgfYCiSQha0MwwnO8G3YnhekMhjpvX4X80uPV6gVv_lahN362f1A4f4cGk4jBE/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_03.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>It's quite amazing when you get views like this, with every rise within sight having a tower on it and the wall snaking its way up and down along the ridges between.<br />
Although we had something of a timetable to keep to meet a bus at the other end, I was confident enough of my pace, from counting the number of towers I'd passed and watching the time, to allow myself to fall behind a bit, to enjoy the wall alone and take pictures at my own pace.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifdEtei9S6NS8XGn2TeFtymMobA2RWnkISKz1EoXA9NgcTLIhyphenhyphenIphErNJxP1o87e13R2oWJxcTA-krhJPhvq5tghmDnt24xYiu946y2j06MlKFty3rcTwFqveG4FOD0duxwM7l8T4Zdxw/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifdEtei9S6NS8XGn2TeFtymMobA2RWnkISKz1EoXA9NgcTLIhyphenhyphenIphErNJxP1o87e13R2oWJxcTA-krhJPhvq5tghmDnt24xYiu946y2j06MlKFty3rcTwFqveG4FOD0duxwM7l8T4Zdxw/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_04.JPG" width="272" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzZl6Ep34tesR1tLxnHdi60sG85paMRgYg42tz-AaJ06kg_8hUfq1_MYLTq7iBa5MyAxjKKY5KWA58bue94SpvhBsmiAEbQ-JGJ-sUuybT0QQZQWp-lZnNjC_3iNwEjHvkC4Dizw-328/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzZl6Ep34tesR1tLxnHdi60sG85paMRgYg42tz-AaJ06kg_8hUfq1_MYLTq7iBa5MyAxjKKY5KWA58bue94SpvhBsmiAEbQ-JGJ-sUuybT0QQZQWp-lZnNjC_3iNwEjHvkC4Dizw-328/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_05.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Occasionally the sun would find its way through the thin cloud, which looks good, but with the temperature rapidly rising, I'd be glad when the cloud covered it up again.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibfeLz58u95JAnvibOGB2qYRUTJjh6cLVX5BQ2SRoNZNALfdpinvIUMC3E1sc_PYWuNVn2kL4Wg913we8afItLOUiyIstjkm5wyOUKQXKvMVaS8F-s4QaLsFN6xVIYSYusxHzKbtDX2O0/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_06.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibfeLz58u95JAnvibOGB2qYRUTJjh6cLVX5BQ2SRoNZNALfdpinvIUMC3E1sc_PYWuNVn2kL4Wg913we8afItLOUiyIstjkm5wyOUKQXKvMVaS8F-s4QaLsFN6xVIYSYusxHzKbtDX2O0/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_06.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>A fair few of these millipedes were also making the trek, despite some gruesome evidence of the hazards of hiker's feet – at least half of the millipedes I saw were splat flat and stuck to the stone.<br />
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At times the wall was incredibly steep, managed at times with steps<br />
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and at others with slopes<br />
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and in case you didn't notice the slope: <br />
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<br />
Most times you could go through the towers, and buy water, snacks, postcards or t-shirts from the sole occupant entrepreneurs,<br />
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but sometimes you had to go round the side and re-mount the wall<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBAQVN18PnXohPyr13Yw1QYwz-5ujiIXZaPOo0WVqgbvcA2M0hVJ_dhWu5-zgl5BPhCeUXhAuo-K_DctmZOqzJzFAn2TAmaY8CP6dB2KVCMR3TADzyys0fPNXI2J8g3u7COAJtBVCQ5mg/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBAQVN18PnXohPyr13Yw1QYwz-5ujiIXZaPOo0WVqgbvcA2M0hVJ_dhWu5-zgl5BPhCeUXhAuo-K_DctmZOqzJzFAn2TAmaY8CP6dB2KVCMR3TADzyys0fPNXI2J8g3u7COAJtBVCQ5mg/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_11.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE8X0PziLXX0q9mAbP-lnmUAuxie6T2BiDEg2zcUQTCVzNI2fXgVnxGgVqXvW3NttG6PiQYi5M_ZV2kx5kOku12ak84nbwZCtvVKvZUnmCOmea3SqdRq8f4MAmxBhxi_hvt_tnw0I9ZUg/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE8X0PziLXX0q9mAbP-lnmUAuxie6T2BiDEg2zcUQTCVzNI2fXgVnxGgVqXvW3NttG6PiQYi5M_ZV2kx5kOku12ak84nbwZCtvVKvZUnmCOmea3SqdRq8f4MAmxBhxi_hvt_tnw0I9ZUg/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_12.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivV3Hek2uMI1EIz-ETgKw6wlUpOXJrTnCxVtUU5JE7ORbQtLWisdF5gEpfatkwNe1ocnTkAW0pY2n1BPN5Voqvhck_p51ehPm9u7qi3ZKNYHx9DEDqMEvFJlALV3Xoa0KKzwARdIwA-F0/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivV3Hek2uMI1EIz-ETgKw6wlUpOXJrTnCxVtUU5JE7ORbQtLWisdF5gEpfatkwNe1ocnTkAW0pY2n1BPN5Voqvhck_p51ehPm9u7qi3ZKNYHx9DEDqMEvFJlALV3Xoa0KKzwARdIwA-F0/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_13.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The start of the dramatic descent to Simatai<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyPsW05cZk-0zWB9NpWJ0hchGIrCXgXoHmiCEQBVc5mknlTko2-fX_gr95vSH6VcZ7-meup-Z7yQ5vp3cwVK0nYWxP3DE85vA2mpE8S_ubk23DC6rL4kF84Ndp2NlFXju-kr_-XxfyKM/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_14.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyPsW05cZk-0zWB9NpWJ0hchGIrCXgXoHmiCEQBVc5mknlTko2-fX_gr95vSH6VcZ7-meup-Z7yQ5vp3cwVK0nYWxP3DE85vA2mpE8S_ubk23DC6rL4kF84Ndp2NlFXju-kr_-XxfyKM/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_14.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Much of the wall from here to Simatai was heavily restored and, having been sympathetic to the regularly observed indignation to wholesale restoration from travellers and Lonely Planet, I found my perspective on the issue shifting. I think it's important to leave some sections unrestored, just maintaining them and making them safe to walk, but I did value walking on some distance of restored wall and gaining a better insight to how it might have looked and felt when it was in use. Of course I'm no expert in the nature and implementation of such restoration works and couldn't say that they'd done the job in the most historically sympathetic way or not.<br />
It was along this restored section near Simatai that I passed an enthusiastic German family. Though we were the only people in sight, they tempered their exuberance as we neared, as most people would, and we exchanged polite nods and hellos. I'd hardly walked 20 meters further when the father couldn't hold back any longer and opening his lungs at the wilderness to the north he roared:<br />
“Die Mongolen kommen!!”<br />
Which gave me something else to laugh about for the rest of the day :)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgLnAMin_Qk2GL8BZbem8ed4j2mSdm1Z6S-GCH75EYvJbwE9mC-2fAlHxsk8e_OrAxiJ-ARuMFNLt1tU1hVhDYQkUyE60l6PxTnXa4TwHlRZi7eC-TJPA1zgo0OMwPApUwNLukDSDS1w/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_15.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgLnAMin_Qk2GL8BZbem8ed4j2mSdm1Z6S-GCH75EYvJbwE9mC-2fAlHxsk8e_OrAxiJ-ARuMFNLt1tU1hVhDYQkUyE60l6PxTnXa4TwHlRZi7eC-TJPA1zgo0OMwPApUwNLukDSDS1w/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_15.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>A section in the process of being restored that I couldn't help but think of as a massive skate ramp!<br />
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A bit like a roller coaster, no sooner had I come down, than I wanted to go up again!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBA0BU9Y-BOaREmvz61iE5Csa-SFPuyEn-GVvQ3DbGGFcH_TmwNYISum5Cpa0JcJc7TblOEtXZKdEnt-0ZkUbkeN6n3u6hVFNGobP8RVLKTwMwGmh9vDBlb730NZ9qfhd6c5iiKJPJYEc/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_16.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBA0BU9Y-BOaREmvz61iE5Csa-SFPuyEn-GVvQ3DbGGFcH_TmwNYISum5Cpa0JcJc7TblOEtXZKdEnt-0ZkUbkeN6n3u6hVFNGobP8RVLKTwMwGmh9vDBlb730NZ9qfhd6c5iiKJPJYEc/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_16.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The Wall climbs dramatically beyond the Simatai exit, which made me want to ascend, but I only had strength and time enough to climb past two or three towers. Besides, you can't get to the top of that section, or at least it's shut off, as it's deemed too dangerous for general access.<br />
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All that up and down is tough on the legs and plenty of tourists pay a few RMB more to ride the zip-line down the last section across a little lake<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVu-AWFZ-VzxOzoCzxPRLsXqxPLzJXknENbvJXFj6mqiH1fhwR-geF2aE9QOKwvBtJrFIHKXAWRf9XO46JpNlWv-7tBOKnVaQovVFr9kf4MQlaxQvqwHamp6gP-z4aelMJ7f_U5UyT4UM/s1600/blog0167_TheGreatWall_17.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0.3em; margin-top: 0.7em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVu-AWFZ-VzxOzoCzxPRLsXqxPLzJXknENbvJXFj6mqiH1fhwR-geF2aE9QOKwvBtJrFIHKXAWRf9XO46JpNlWv-7tBOKnVaQovVFr9kf4MQlaxQvqwHamp6gP-z4aelMJ7f_U5UyT4UM/s400/blog0167_TheGreatWall_17.JPG" width="281" /></a></div><br />
But I quite like walking and so I did that instead.Martin.http://www.blogger.com/profile/01396521262600223850noreply@blogger.com