Local fixer Sirik had speculated a 9am start for my visit to the ship graveyard which is an hour drive into the desert that used to be sea. I had insisted that I wanted to get out there soon after sunrise, mainly for better lighting for photography, but also to avoid the searing heat of the middle of the day. So my driver and I set off at 5am, leaving Aralsk under the cover of darkness and witnessing the magic of the colour and light changes of dawn conjuring the desert out of the dark.
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