Ill on Arrival

2009 08 06 – Day 41 - Almaty

Other than dealing with each moment as it came, I'm not quite sure how I made it from the border to Chimkent, and then survived several hours waiting for my overnight train to Almaty. It's times like this that travelling with another person would be beneficial, at least you'd have someone to watch your stuff while you find a toilet. I think Imodium helped solidify the situation somewhat, but am not sure because the night was not trouble free and by the time we arrived in Almaty I was weak with stomach cramps, lack of sleep, lack of food and from all my energy being used to keep the situation under control. Having spent more than 24 hours on Imodium and still not right, I was keen to follow the instruction leaflet and seek medical attention. Fortunately for me, sharing my compartment was Muslim, an Almaty local and software engineer who had been to Chimkent for it's hot spring health spas, who had been keen to practice his English the day before, and so I had someone to approach for help. Despite his decent English, it still took a shuffle through my ever-useful pocket Russian phrasebook to communicate effectively. Panos. That's what I had. Muslim translated the recommendation of the middle-aged mothers sharing our compartment – Regadron (a prehistoric sounding rehydration powder) in a litre of water, sip all day and rest. No food. It sounded like they knew what they were talking about, but, given my medications instructions, I thought it wise that I still seek medical attention. Muslim generously helped me out in this regard, shepherding me around Almaty until we found an appropriate clinic.
A very necessary visit to the clinics toilet was brightened by this curiously named bin.

Why is this bin a fantasy bin? Who has fantasies about bins!? Maybe it's the 'swing' aspect that really sets it apart.

After a short consultation, and a small fee, I got exactly the same advice the train mums gave, and so purchased some Regadron and set about finding somewhere to stay so I could get on with the serious business of rest and recouperation.

I spent the next day laying in bed, sipping tea and my Regadron laced water, reading, writing my diary and watching Liverpool beat Blackburn 4-2... shame that it was a repeat of last seasons game as the 2009/10 season hadn't started yet.


The ever evolving sky and the calls to prayer of the nearby mosque provided structure to my day.

I later realised this day of doing 'nothing' (which of course wasn't nothing) was badly needed. Regardless of my illness, I needed to rest my brain and body from the rigours of travel. It occurred to me that I would be wise to schedule more days like this, without the illness, in my future travels to help keep my energy levels up and keep me sane.

Traveller's Nightmare

2009 08 02 – Day 37 - Samarkand

I awake in strange surroundings. Cockerels are doing their job somewhere nearby, announcing the imminent arrival of the sun. I'm not Ruslan's house? Beside where I lay on the lovely carpet, someone had kindly left some pavement pizza... nice of them, but I'm not hungry. Something felt different about what I was wearing and it took me a moment or two to work it out.... I didn't have my camera! Before I'd even properly started worrying about that, I realised I didn't have my neck pouch on either! My neck pouch, which had not been off my person since the train in Finland, contained my credit card, debit card, emergency dollars and my visa-filled passport!! Fuuuuck!! Totally awake now and my mind racing, I double check my clothing and immediate vicinity... I still have my wallet with Uzbek Soms and drivers license... that's something I suppose... but no sign of my camera and neck pouch! Surging to my feet I'm rapidly aware that I'm still drunk! I stumble outside into the aftermath of the wedding party. Pre-dawn light casts its clinical gaze over the fallout... seems like it was quite a party! The place is deserted bar a couple of bodies that look like they partied until they dropped and a kid who appears out of nowhere, skips his way around the wreckage and disappears almost as if he were never there. As hard as I try I can't recall enough detail of the night before to even begin to work out what to do next. Fortunately the alcohol still in my body talks some sense by deciding for me – back to bed!
It's 5 am, I'm tired, no one else is awake or speaks English, I've no idea where I am or where my camera, bank cards or visa-filled passport are... thankfully my drunkeness protects me from the full impact of this disaster scenario and I find myself chuckling at the ridiculousness of the situation as I settle back down next my pizza, somehow convinced that it'll all be ok after a nap!

Treasure Hunt!

2009 07 24 – Day 28 – Moscow

I like exploring new places. I like wandering the streets with no particular aim other than to get my bearings a bit and get a feel for a place. I like to not have an answer to the question 'where are you going?' However, it's also fun when you have an objective, a mission, an appointment with the unknown.
'What're you doing Terrance?' 'I'm searching for treasure!'
My treasure hunt wasn't quite Lara Croft or even Robert Langdon in the Da Vinci Code, but it was still exciting for me: I needed to find the wise woman of Moscow, who, if I satisfied her questions, would give me a mystical runic token granting me rapid passage to the east! OooooooOO! :)
Roughly translated I needed to find some obscure Russian travel agents who were in cahoots with Sundowners who were organising my Moscow-Beijing travel. At said obscure travel agent, the chain-smoking old lady, verified who I was and gave me my ticket for the following day from Moscow to Aralsk in Kazakhstan. After explaining my ticket in triplicate and warning me about every possible danger in Russia, she read me the travellers thesaurus of how to be cautious! I had to work a little to extricate myself from her doom-saying. One thing she had been justified in being worried about was that it was friday, they close earlier than other days and are closed on saturday... had I arrived a couple of hours later, getting my ticket would have got a whole lot more complicated.
To please thine eye with some colour to partner this text, here is a church at which I turned right to reach my treasure! (a prettier and more unique sight than the KFC that was an earlier landmark on the directions I had!)

Knowing me knowing you: Sørlandet

2009 07 04 - Day 8 – Gdynia

(yes I know ABBA were Swedish but thinking about 'knowing' my brain sings lyric lines and the alternative was 'Like to get to know you well' by Howard Jones).
from the website
"The SØRLANDET represents a unique heritage from days of the tall ships and fast clippers. Welcome aboard!
"Formerly a schoolship for training of young cadets, she is now owned and operated by a non profit foundation offering adventure sailings for young people of all ages.
"The SØRLANDET is the oldest operative full-rigged ship in the world. She was built in 1927 at the Høivolds Mek. Verksted, a local shipyard in Kristiansand."
For those who know about those sort of things:
"The SØRLANDET's particulars:
Displacement: 891 tons
Gross tons: 499
Length: 57 m
Length inclusove bowsprit : 65 m
Mast height :35 m
Draft: 4,5 m
Trainee capacity: 70/sailing or 150 passenger in closed waters.
Fixed crew: 15"

After dropping my bags, I had time to get to know the ship and my new shipmates.

This is the banjer which is the common room/dining room/bedroom (seat backs get held up by chains to form a top bunk).

Together only a few hours (and a few beers) and already we were a hearty crew!

Our ship even looks great at night!

Luxembourg!

2009 06 28-30 - Days 2-4 - Luxembourg

It was great to see Heloise, Mervin & Julian in Luxembourg.

A couple of lazy days catching up and chilling out.

I was so relaxed there, at some point I had this really calm/blue sky/fresh air brain sensation... I realised that it reminded me of school holidays - junior and early high school years. I think it was something to do with having a big pool of nothing ahead of me in time, all I had to deal with or think about with any application was today and maybe something in a couple of days, but that probably didn't need to be dealt with now either! Very refreshing!

It was also nice to see Peggy, though a shame for just a few hours.