Daylight washes away the darkness in every sense. Banished are the demons of the night and a mantis, that would have seemed sinister and repulsive the night before, is a companion, relaxing on the net curtains. Later in the day I'm told the presence of the mantis is a sign of good luck. Sirik, the local fixer, arrives and we iron out the difficulties of last night. He'll sort out my accommodation complications with Sundowners, get my onward train ticket to Tashkent and organise a driver for me to visit the one 'tourist' attraction of the area – the ship graveyard in desert that used to be the Aral Sea.
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