Dark by Day, Light by Night

2009 09 16 – Day 82 – Dandong

With smog strangling the strength of the sun, it seemed like Dandong's days might never be described as bright and twilight slid effortlessly into night.
On came the lights and with them the city seemed to come to life, becoming simultaneously more lively and cheery.

The China-North Korea Friendship Bridge became more friendly, though gaudy, with its lights gently cycling through the primary colours.

A nightly, musically enhanced fountain show provided a pleasant backdrop:

But it wasn't clear if the purpose was to entertain the (few) tourists, the locals or to show off to the North Koreans across the river.
There were plenty of locals about, but most didn't pay much attention to the fountains, entertaining themselves, often in group activities like this tai chi group:

Shanhaiguan Nightlife

2009 09 13 – Day 79 – Shanhaiguan

First stop after Beijing – Shanhaiguan – a heavily 'restored' old town to the east of Beijing, occupying a strategic location between the mountains and the sea and well known for being the only place The Great Wall meets the sea.

Having arrived at the end of the afternoon, I'd barely had sufficient time to find a place to stay and settle in before darkness fell.

And so out I strode into the warm summer night in search of dinner

The spiders crafting impressive webs on their lampposts were easily large enough that a few could make substantial and possibly nutritious dinner... but no way was I tempted to try!

There were very few people out and about, but those that were still managed to obstruct my photography:

having said that, I think the silhouettes add to this photo. I believe the man is airing his crickets – which gave the street a lovely gently musical ambiance.

Eventually, having left the old town, I found a streetside barbecue.

With the help of the smiley, friendly, if a little embarrassed, teen girls waiting the tables, and a good deal of pointing and not being fussy, I managed to have a fairly tasty dinner of fish, sausage, garlic bread and pepper. I'd innocently ordered what I thought was a bell pepper to add some veg to the meal, but in fact it was a massive chili pepper! It was one of those hot peppers where you know its hot after you've had some, but the true heat doesn't come through until two or three bites later... by which point it was far too late. Trying to keep my breathing normal, stem the sweat at the hairline, soothe my mouth with beer and not cry was tough for a moment or two, but I beat it... mostly... I did have hiccups for much of the rest of the evening!
Walking off the chili-pepper before bed and exploring the town a little, I hadn't gone far before the sound of drumming danced out of the darkness and, like the flame beguiling a moth, drew me to its source.

A small troop were giving a bit of a streetside show and a rag-tag band of onlookers had gathered. It looked like some kind of amateur/hobby group thoroughly enjoying themselves. I watched from the sidelines for a good 15-20 minutes till they were done, enjoying the rhythm of the drums, the crashing of the symbols and the enthusiasm of the performers. One sprightly elderly gent with a twinkle in his eye, and doing a good job of looking like a Chinese drag-queen, spied me grinning from the sidelines on his way by and made at least a couple of attempts to rope me in! A negotiation that brought much to the amusement of the chubby teen who'd sidled to my side for a closer look at the sole foreigner present.
Soon after the last drumbeat had ebbed out into the night, I beat a hasty retreat back through the old town to my bed.

24hr City

2009 08-09 – Beijing

Modern efficiency demands that many jobs have night-shifts, but I have never been anywhere that comes close to Beijing's sense of activity through the night. Of course the roads quieten down somewhat, but it seemed like no matter what time I was returning to my hostel, or what corner I turned, there was always someone doing something. Unexpected nocturnal activities include people moving house, railings being painted and new tarmac being laid on a road that seemed only a few weeks old which seemed certain to be finished in time for rush hour traffic.

Restaurants stay open quite late,

but not quite so late as these small streetside joints

Of course the train stations are open and functional 24hrs as many trains are long distance and overnight.

One of Beijing's recycling entrepreneurs.

An Evening in Tashkent

2009 07 30 – Day 34 - Tashkent


It seems this is the way to get from one platform to another in this part of the world.
Arriving in Tashkent in the searing heat of early afternoon, I was glad to be met by someone from my hotel, who whisked me away to my air-conditioned room where I was glad to be able to wash, rest and hide from the heat.



The city is more human at dusk. The temperature is comfortable, the air friendly and it doesn't hurt to look at anything brighter than black. Sunlight disappears quickly, but the streetlife continues. Many people are out for dinner, drinks, shopping, a walk in the park. Although there's street lighting, it's not particularly strong and there are plenty of dark corners and shadowy areas – there's every reason for me to feel, uncomfortable and/or vulnerable walking by myself and unable to speak the language. But I don't. There are a couple of times I give some groups a wide berth or become a bit more alert for trouble, but more out of caution than anything else. I don't really feel threatened and it's nice to be able to wander anonymously amongst the locals.


Open air film screening at a nearby hotel.

Later that evening my hotel's driver takes me on a wild-goose chase around the bigger hotels in Tashkent. The big hotels have the only cash machines in town it seems... but none of them work! I feel like I'm in a film as we cruise the near-empty, wide avenues, chilled by his cool jazz radio.

Knowing me knowing you: Sørlandet

2009 07 04 - Day 8 – Gdynia

(yes I know ABBA were Swedish but thinking about 'knowing' my brain sings lyric lines and the alternative was 'Like to get to know you well' by Howard Jones).
from the website
"The SØRLANDET represents a unique heritage from days of the tall ships and fast clippers. Welcome aboard!
"Formerly a schoolship for training of young cadets, she is now owned and operated by a non profit foundation offering adventure sailings for young people of all ages.
"The SØRLANDET is the oldest operative full-rigged ship in the world. She was built in 1927 at the Høivolds Mek. Verksted, a local shipyard in Kristiansand."
For those who know about those sort of things:
"The SØRLANDET's particulars:
Displacement: 891 tons
Gross tons: 499
Length: 57 m
Length inclusove bowsprit : 65 m
Mast height :35 m
Draft: 4,5 m
Trainee capacity: 70/sailing or 150 passenger in closed waters.
Fixed crew: 15"

After dropping my bags, I had time to get to know the ship and my new shipmates.

This is the banjer which is the common room/dining room/bedroom (seat backs get held up by chains to form a top bunk).

Together only a few hours (and a few beers) and already we were a hearty crew!

Our ship even looks great at night!

Brussels!

2009 06 27 - Day 1 - Brussels

After a lovely dinner with Geoff & Linda we wandered up & around this 'Cinquantenaire' triumphal arch - nicely lit at night don't you think?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinquantenaire